Houston Chronicle

Food tourism searches for deeper meaning.

- By Elaine Gusac NEW YORK TIMES

When it comes to consuming a culture, it’s hard to beat digesting it in the literal sense, which may explain the explosion of foodrelate­d trips.

From Texas to Turkey, food is a point of differenti­ation for many destinatio­ns and, according to the United Nation’s World Tourism Organizati­on, food is helping drive tourism to rural regions, giving often needy areas income to supplement agricultur­e.

Counting culinary travelers is nearly impossible; after all, everyone eats. But in a 2016 survey, the World Food Travel Associatio­n, a nonprofit devoted to education and research in the culinary travel field, found that 59 percent of respondent­s believe food and drinks are more important to them when they travel than those factors were five years ago.

In the decade or so since culinary travel began whetting the appetites of gastronaut­s, food-related travel has shifted from pure consumptio­n to deeper investigat­ions into where food comes from and the cultural and geographic factors that influence it.

“Food tourism is where walking tours were in the 1980s when there was confusion about walking versus trekking,” said Kathy Dragon, a veteran guide who owns Whole Journeys, which organizes active trips with a food focus.

The latest in food trips runs the gamut from addressing food waste to forging connection­s with those growing, raising and making the food (rates are per person).

Eat and exercise

In addition to burning off calories, active food trips can offer groundleve­l entree to food producers.

“Instead of just pulling up in a bus, you’re learning about the traditions of food in a way that’s approachab­le to the artisans and farmers,” said Dragon of Whole Journeys.

The company’s newest itinerary follows the Rota Vicentina in southern Portugal, a hiking trail along the coast where fisherman cast from atop the cliffs. The next 12-day trip departs May 21 and will be repeated in the fall (from $4,295).

Beppe Salerno, the co-founder of the bike tour company Tourissimo, combines his passion for biking with his training as a sommelier in food-focused itinerarie­s. This year, the company is planning trips with wellknown American chefs to bridge the two cultures. Brooke Williamson, a “Top Chef ” winner, will accompany a new trip to Emilia-Romagna, the home of Parmigiano­Reggiano and prosciutto di Parma, June 4 to 10 ($3,995).

Multicours­e tours

Outfitters of trips that are one week or longer use food as a prism for exploring culture.

Wild Frontiers specialize­s in adventurou­s destinatio­ns, and with its first food tours this year, it will focus on off-the-beaten foodie path destinatio­ns, including Colombia and Georgia. The nine-day Georgia trip, departing Sept. 26 and led by food writer Carla Capalbo, will travel from Tbilisi to the wine-growing region of Kakheti and the Caucasus Mountains, where the itinerary includes a dinner and cooking demonstrat­ion in a local home (from 2,595 pounds, or about $3,620).

Two years ago, Jim Kane, the founder and director of the tour company Culture Xplorers, went to Chile to help make a series of videos on innovative chefs, foragers and food traditions. He put many of those experience­s — including clamming with a local, cooking a feast in an earthen oven and eating in the home of a pair of chefs who source all of their food within a few miles — in the company’s new 10-day Chile: Fjords, Fields & Flavor private tours (from $6,995).

A specialist in South America, Kuoda Travel combines classic and contempora­ry food experience­s in private tours of Peru. In addition to the Inca ruins in the Sacred Valley, for example, where ancient terraces are still used to grow indigenous grains, Kuoda has begun organizing itinerarie­s around Mil, the new restaurant and research center from the chef Virgilio Martinez, that includes working on its farm.

Day trips

New city outings highlight emerging neighborho­ods and local storytelli­ng.

In Portland, Maine, launching in June, Maine Food for Thought Tours will progressiv­ely feast at popular restaurant­s such as Union and Piccolo, where the chefs will discuss their use of local ingredient­s. The two-hour, five-stop itinerarie­s aim to spotlight not just the dishes but food sustainabi­lity, from blueberrie­s to lobster ($72).

In Indianapol­is, the new Indy Cultural Trail Food Tours string together some of the most acclaimed restaurant­s along the 8-mile urban bike trail that cuts through diningcent­ric districts like Fletcher Place. Three- to four-hour walking or bike tours ($55 to $70) visit acclaimed restaurant­s such as Milktooth and Bluebeard.

 ?? TOURISSIMO / NYT ?? The bike tour company Tourissimo is planning trips this year with American chefs. One “Top Chef ” winner will accompany a new trip to Emilia-Romagna.
TOURISSIMO / NYT The bike tour company Tourissimo is planning trips this year with American chefs. One “Top Chef ” winner will accompany a new trip to Emilia-Romagna.

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