Houston Chronicle

Cheap meat and undocument­ed workers

- By Lynn Waltz

But do surprise raids really work? Only temporaril­y, because they do not address the underlying issue of the market’s demand for cheap meat and the cheap labor to supply it.

As you grill out this holiday, you may want to consider the high cost of your steaks, hamburgers and sausages.

On April 5, at a beef slaughterh­ouse in Bean Station, Tenn., U.S. Immigratio­n and Customs Enforcemen­t used helicopter­s, armed federal agents and roadblocks to round up nearly 100 workers. It was the largest immigratio­n raid in more than a decade.

After the raids, terrified families tried to find loved ones. The next day, more than 500 children missed school. Civil rights advocates and religious groups protested the forcible separation of mothers, fathers and children, then raised $60,000 to help.

Theoretica­lly, a public crackdown on undocument­ed workers, overwhelmi­ngly Latino, deters illegal immigratio­n, but many people are hurt in the process. The plants go idle as the chaos ripples through towns sustained by worker spending power. Workers flee to other slaughterh­ouses, where managers are happy to hire people for the most dangerous manufactur­ing job in America,

The cycle is familiar. Americans want cheap meat. That requires low wages. So plants hire undocument­ed workers. ICE raids the plants. Latino families cry. Schoolteac­hers are put in the untenable position of either supervisin­g children after hours or sending them home, knowing their parents are missing. People are appalled by the human cost, momentaril­y. Then, the cycle begins again.

At one time, labor unions made sure that workers were paid well and protected from injury. Then, beginning in the 1960s, meatpacker­s shut down the old unionized urban plants and moved into right-to-work rural states, breaking the backs of the unions. In the 1990s, the North American Free Trade Agreement helped propel thousands of Latinos — many undocument­ed — into meatpackin­g, lowering wages even further. Employers welcomed them. Undocument­ed workers were easier to control and much harder to unionize than U.S.-born workers. The speed of production lines increased. Injuries increased. Union representa­tion decreased further, along with wages and working conditions.

Then came the backlash under President George W. Bush. On a single day in 2006, ICE raided six Swift & Co. meatpackin­g plants in six states arresting 1,300 workers — including 300 in Cactus, Texas — about 10 percent of Swift’s workforce. Most were deported. “Operation Wagon Train” remains the largest worksite enforcemen­t action in U.S. history. Nearly a quarter of Swift’s workers at the time were undocument­ed, and Swift had to raise wages by about 8 percent to stay open.

But do surprise raids really work? Only temporaril­y, because they do not address the underlying issue of the market’s demand for cheap meat and the cheap labor to supply it.

Within months of the Swift raids, ICE raided the world’s largest slaughterh­ouse, owned by Smithfield Foods, in Tar Heel, N.C. They arrested 21 workers, surreptiti­ously pulling Latino workers off the line. Workers quietly put down their knives, took off their protective gear and headed to HR, where they were put in handcuffs.

Word spreads when “la migra” — Spanish slang for the immigratio­n service — is on the way. In Tar Heel, within weeks of the raid, nearly half of the plant’s workforce — more than 2,000 employees and their families — simply left the region. The loss of workers forced Smithfield to increase wages, which attracted more AfricanAme­ricans, who were far more likely to vote for union representa­tion. By 2008, workers had organized under the United Food and Commercial Workers Union. It was an unusual victory in the South, where right-to-work, antiunion views flourish.

The Bush administra­tion focused on rounding up workers rather than punishing business owners. Now, it appears President Trump has rediscover­ed that playbook. In December, Trump commuted the 27-year prison sentence of the former chief executive of the Postville plant. In Tennessee, no charges were filed against the owners of Southern Provision, near Knoxville. Usually, large employers are slapped with fines — the cost of doing business — and they lie low, then go back to business as usual.

Meanwhile, agents have been ordered to quadruple worksite inspection­s. Will a slaughterh­ouse in Texas — which processes more meat than any state but Nebraska — be next?

It’s an open secret. Americans want cheap meat. We consume more meat per capita than any other country. We want our holiday hams and roasts. We also demand, or at least tolerate, the occasional public display of immigratio­n enforcemen­t, despite the human suffering.

Waltz is a journalist and author of “Hog Wild: The Battle for Workers’ Rights at the World’s Largest Slaughterh­ouse,” released May 15 by the University of Iowa Press. She is an assistant professor of journalism at Hampton University.

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