The Classic All Day
Benjy’s reincarnation on Washington reflects the way Americans are eating now: casual, simple dishes done with style
THE CONCEPT
A neighborhood restaurant that combines oldschool diner notions (blueplate specials, counter seating fronting a bustling open kitchen) with familiar global foods (touches of Italian, French, Asian and Jewish deli flavors). It’s owner Benjy Levit’s reincarnation of what was formerly Benjy’s on Washington.
THE SPACE
Houston designer Aaron Rambo and Austin-based architect Michael Hsu have opened up the space, bringing in more light and adding hanging globes. It feels more airy with generously spaced center tables, oversized booths and long banquettes. Seating has been scaled back from 220 during the Benjy’s era to about 150. A long mural along two walls depicts Buffalo Bayou, including the Washington sector, circa 1910.
THE FOOD
Chefs Mike Potowski and Maria Gonzalez, who have been with Benjy’s since it opened on Washington in 2009, have created menus that reflect the way a growing sector of Americans is eating now: casual, simple dishes done with style. That could mean cucumber, melon and crab wearing a gloss of maple rice vinaigrette spiked with Thai chili; pork belly and fried egg on an English muffin with pepper jam; Russian dumplings (pelmeni) filled with mushroom, dill and hazelnuts; daily fish with green beans, sauce gribiche and charred tomatillos; and a Dutch Baby pancake topped with seasonal fruit for breakfast.
THE DRINK
In addition to beer and wine, there’s a list of classic, three-ingredient cocktails such as the Negroni (Fords Gin, sweet vermouth and Campari), the Sidecar (cognac, Cointreau, lemon juice), Old Fashioned (bourbon, sugar, bitters) and Remember the Alamo (gin, sherry, Cynar). The bar also is pushing out “new classics” that include Gin & Juice — gin, lemon juice and simple syrup that can be made with fresh pressed carrot juice, beet juice or apple juice. And for brunch, why not a Harvey Wallbanger?
THE WORD
“The idea is not having rules,” Levit said. “Our idea is to let the customer dictate and decide.”
ONE MORE THING
An organic garden on the second level will be used for growing herbs and vegetables for the restaurant.
THE DETAILS
5922 Washington, 713-8681131; theclassicallday.com. Open for breakfast 8-11 a.m. daily; lunch and dinner 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays.