Chef Chris Shepherd changes things up again with One Fifth Mediterranean.

The flavor profile of Chris Shepherd’s third restaurant incarnation changes again

THE CONCEPT

James Beard Award-winning chef Chris Shepherd’s third iteration of his ambitious One Fifth restaurant project (five different restaurants in five years in the same space). Mediterranean follows the initial steakhouse concept and the recently retired “Romance Languages.”

THE SPACE

The former Lutheran church, previously home to Mark’s, has been tweaked once again, this time with fresh white walls, white textured tiles and blue trim. Greek and Moroccan-inspired patterns figure into silkscreened ceiling panels and an awning above the bar.

THE FOOD

The menu, overseen day to day by chef de cuisine Matt Staph, is divided in seven sections: hummus and other dips served with fresh pita; a bevy of small salads and pickles; mezze plates (chicken shawarma, kibbeh); dishes “from the fire” (mostly meats cooked in the restaurant’s wood-burning oven and on the charcoal grill); family-style platters, such as whole fish and braised lamb; grains (Persian rice, crispy couscous); and a full gamut of condiments. You can also choose the “Sightseeing Tour” option, which features assorted highlights for $60 per person. For dessert, how about pecan baklava, babka or chocolate hummus?

THE DRINKS

The Old World wine list is supplemented by lesserknown wine-producing regions of Morocco, Turkey, Israel and Lebanon. The cocktail menu is inspired by Mediterranean ingredients and spices such as cardamom and sumac. Yes, ouzo and arak are on the list.

THE WORD

“This one was the hardest one for me,” Shepherd said of One Fifth’s Mediterranean chapter. For his staff, too, he added: “(It) was outside of our wheelhouses. So there’s been a lot of conversation, a lot of testing, a lot of going back and redoing things.”

ONE MORE THING

Shepherd’s new Georgia James steakhouse, in his former Underbelly spot, is expected to open later this month, just before his Southern Smoke fundraiser on Sept. 30.

THE DETAILS

1658 Westheimer, 713-9551024; onefifthhouston.com. Open 5-10 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays, 5-11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays.

Salatim, from top left: Turkish Salad (chopped vegetable salad); Itch (bulgur and vermicelli salad); Coffee Roasted Beets + Carob Labneh. Bottom, from left: Labneh (strained yogurt salad with cucumbers and dill); Torshi (Israeli pickles); Zaalouk (spicy eggplant and tomato salad)

Photos by Julie Soefer / Contributor Fire-roasted baby eggplant with tehina, pomegranate seeds, mint, feta is served at One Fifth Mediterranean.