Houston Chronicle

Familiar faces at Iron Sommelier contest

Top Houston sommeliers preparing to wow judges at annual benefit competitio­n

- By Dale Robertson

Two former champions will be back in the mix for 2018 when some of Houston’s best wine stewards convene Nov. 8 at The Houstonian Hotel & Spa for what has become H-Town’s most prestigiou­s — and instructiv­e — annual wine competitio­n, the battle for the title of Iron Sommelier.

Well, I say battle. This might also be the city’s friendlies­t competitio­n of all. You know how sommeliers are. They’re a band of brothers and sisters — especially on this night when their intensely creative grape-centric efforts are all for the purpose of benefiting the Periwinkle Foundation, which provides support for families dealing with cancer and other deadly diseases. The event has raised nearly $1.5 million since 2012, when the take was $150,000. Last year the evening brought in a record $290,000.

Seeking a third Iron Sommelier crown will be Christian Varas of River Oaks Country Club, who won in 2013 and 2016. Evan Turner, the 2015 winner who recently took charge of Emmaline’s wine program, is pursuing his second. His raison d’être is Greek wines, and he’ll be presenting three bottles that are speaking the loudest to him these days.

Sean Beck, wine director for chef Hugo Ortega and Tracy Vaught’s restaurant group and the only three-time winner to date, now helps Periwinkle stage the event.

Varas’ presentati­on will be “Pushing Past the 45th Parallel: A New Frontier for Fine Wine.” Each somm selects a trio of wines that focuses on a particular region, varietal or genre, then makes his or her case as to why their theme is the most compelling. Profession­al judges select the winner while attendees vote on the People’s Choice Award winner.

Note that the 2014 Iron Sommelier champ, Steven McDonald, the wine director for Pappas Bros. Steakhouse, recently earned Master Sommelier status. But McDonald has deferred this year to his Pappas Bros. colleague, Chris Walter. Also, Angie Chang of Backstreet Cafe, the runnerup a year ago representi­ng Yauatcha, will be Team Ortega’s representa­tive after her counterpar­t at Caracol, Andres Blanco, captured both the 2017 Iron Somm designatio­n and the People’s Choice Award. But Blanco’s presence will still be felt. As is the tradition for the defending champion, he has put together a collection of wines — the theme is “Hidden Treasures of Modern Italy” — that can be purchased in advance for $475 for 12 bottles or $250 for six. They’ll be available at the annual Pick-up Party Nov. 15 at Balthazar Cellars.

To reserve event tickets, which are $200, or to order Blanco’s selections, go to ironsommel­ier.org.

 ?? Photos by Gary Fountain / Contributo­r ?? Sommelier Matt Crawford, left, talks with Lori and Beau Glenn at the Iron Sommelier event in 2017.
Photos by Gary Fountain / Contributo­r Sommelier Matt Crawford, left, talks with Lori and Beau Glenn at the Iron Sommelier event in 2017.
 ??  ?? 2017 Iron Sommelier Andres Blanco is putting together a retail collection of Italian wines for this year’s event.
2017 Iron Sommelier Andres Blanco is putting together a retail collection of Italian wines for this year’s event.

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