A taste of Saint-Tropez
Montrose bistro La Villa Saint-Tropez invites diners to savor the French Riviera.
THE CONCEPT
A new French bistro in Montrose from the team of Frenchmen behind the neighboring French-themed Victor bar.
THE SPACE
A sunny, whitewashed, two-level restaurant — formerly home to Cafe Azur — with white gauzy curtains, Mediterranean blue chairs and oversize black-and-white photos of Saint-Tropez cityscapes and French icon Brigitte Bardot (who put the French coastal town on the map when she shot “And God Created Woman” there).
THE FOOD
Executive chef Bruno Gallou, a Brittany-reared cook whose résumé includes working with Michelin-star chef Christian Constant in Paris, calls his work “bistronomy.” The menu is full of Gallic charm: goat cheese salad with a dollop of tapenade; foie gras with fig chutney; eggplant confit; tuna tartare; vodka salmon gravlax with crunchy fennel and herb cream; and a duck terrine with candied onions. Mains include roasted split lobster on linguine with lobster bisque; shrimp risotto with a shellfish emulsion; roasted duck breast with local honey sauce served on polenta; beef tenderloin with cognac and green peppercorn sauce; and bouillabaisse with saffron potatoes and rouille.
THE DRINKS
There’s a generous menu of French wine,
oui, but customers also can enjoy a cocktail — try the New Texas Connection, which blends brandy, Grand Marnier, spicy liqueur, grape juice, simple syrup, strawberry and a kick of jalapeño.
THE WORD
“At my age,” said Gallou, 52, who moved to Houston for the project, “I had to get out of my comfort zone. I managed to come here and be a part of a team and something different. I love the challenge. Cooking is not just about work — it’s about passion.”
THE DETAILS
4315 Montrose, 713524-0070; villasainttropezhtx.com. Open 5-11 p.m. TuesdaysFridays, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. for lunch Saturdays and brunch Sundays.