Our picks of the week include a Russian River Valley pinot noir and Texas sauv blanc.
PICK OF THE WEEK 2015 The Calling Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
Overall score: 19.1 (9.1 for quality, 10 for value)
Our tasters: Gave it a unanimous recommendation with a high score of 9.4. “Beautiful, expressive fruit. Smoky, dried herbs with a long finish.” My score: 9.1. “Soft, silky tannins. In a word, delicious.”
Varietal/blend: 100 percent pinot noir Alcohol: 14.5 percent Winery/vineyards/
winemaking: The Calling wines are a collaboration between the prominent sportscaster Jim Nantz, a man with strong Houston ties, and wine-industry veteran Peter Deutsch. Winemaker Dan Goldfield sourced the grapes from a variety of locations in the Russian River Valley. Fruit from the warmer end of the valley created the bright flavors and fruit, and the cooler part delivered minerality and a structural backbone. Higher-altitude vines, profiting from sandy, well-drained soil, added complexity.
Winemaker notes: “Aromas
of Bing cherry, cranberry and a hint of white pepper. On the palate, lush raspberry and strawberry complement excellent acidity and a lingering finish.”
Critical acclaim: Wine Spectator awarded a score of 91; Wine Enthusiast gave it a 90.
Pairings: Garlic and herb-roasted pork tenderloin. Duck breast with pomegranate-citrus glaze. Roasted mushrooms and herbs.
Price: $31.49 at Total Wine
ALSO HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 2016 Michael David Petite Petit
Overall score: 18.9 (8.9 for quality, 10 for value)
Our tasters: Gave it a unanimous recommendation with a high score of 9.4. “Tart and jammy. Simple but satisfying.” My score: 8.9. “Raspberry on the nose, black cherry and blueberries on the palate.” As the name would indicate, it’s a blend of petite sirah (85 percent) and petit verdot from Michael David, founded by brothers Michael and David Phillips, fifth-generation members of a family with roots in Lodi, Calif., dating to the 1850s. Alcohol: 14.5 percent.
Price: $14.99 at Spec’s
2016 Señorio de Nava Verdejo
Overall score: 18.8 (8.8 for quality, 10 for value)
Our tasters: Gave it a unanimous recommendation with three scores of 8.9.
“Light, tart, fragrant. Lemon zest.” My score: 8.9. “Pleasing citrus flavors. Fine minerality.” It’s a classic, value-driven wine from the Castile and Léon region of Segovia, Spain, where verdejo is the queen of the white-grape varietals. Alcohol: 13 percent.
Price: $11.99 at Total Wine
2017 Amici Cellars Sauvignon Blanc
Overall score: 18.9 (8.9 for quality, 9 for value)
Our tasters: Gave it a unanimous recommendation with two scores of at least 9. “Clean, fresh citrus flavors, especially yummy grapefruit.” My score: 9.1. “Crisp and light. Fills the mouth with flavor.” A partnership of friends as the name suggests (John Harris is a former Houstonian), Amici wines are crafted by longtime Napa Valley winemaker Anthony Biagi and Jesse Fox, once a chef under Thomas Keller at the French Laundry. Twenty percent of the wine comes from the sauvignon musque clone. Alcohol: 13.7 percent.
Price: $24.99 at Total Wine
WOW! WINE
I often stumble into wines that thoroughly seduce my
taste buds but haven’t passed through the official Chronicle tasting panel’s vetting process. The 2016 Fall Creek Vineyards Exterra Mourvèdre is this week’s pick, but, truth to tell, it was a virtual coin flip between it and the other two new flagship wines from the Texas Hill Country’s original winery. The Mourvèdre got the nod over the Exterra Tempranillo and the Exterra Syrah, both 2016s as well, only because more was produced, 134 cases versus 72 and 44, respectively. They’re priced to compete with the big boys from California and elsewhere — and I think they do.
My score: 9.2. “Earthy but elegant, too. Texas has come a long way, baby.” Winemaker notes: “Has lively fruit character reminiscent of red and black plumb, and ripe tannins supporting the terrestrial flavors of farmland soil, sarsaparilla and morel mushroom.”
Critical acclaim: Wine critic James Suckling awarded all three Exterras scores of 91. Price: $100 at fcv.com