Small treats of Nowruz even better when homemade
Mark Iranian New Year with sweets that celebrate the coming of spring Honey Caramel Cashew Candies
In the weeks leading up to Nowruz, Iranians happily line up at confectioneries and bakeries to buy cookies, pastries and a variety of nuts for their 13 days of new year festivities. This year, the holiday began Thursday.
My dad always took my sister and me with him to do the holiday shopping. Like most Iranians, he would walk out of the shops with arms filled with boxes of sweets and bags of nuts.
Although Persian cuisine is deservedly known for satisfying Iran’s collective sweet tooth, Persians in most big cities — particularly in Tehran — don’t bake these holiday treats at home. Instead, they buy sweets from other regions of the country; the cities of Isfahan, Yazd and Qazvin are particularly known for their sugary creations.
To me, small Persian pastries are unique. Most are rich-tasting, filled with walnuts, pistachios and other ground nuts. They are sweetened with honey and often flavored with syrup that is scented with rosewater, that undeniably powerful and sometimes polarizing ingredient. I love to make my own pastries, because to me, as an immigrant cooking my native recipes, it is not just about the food but more about home. So I am happy to share the recipes for my favorites.
A box of tiny but flavorful Chickpea Cookies was always the first Nowruz item my dad would pick up, because they are what he likes best. So it was important for me to learn how to make these for him. They typically are cut in a flower shape, but if you don’t have the right-size cookie cutter, rolling the dough into small balls will do.
White mulberries are a favorite snack of most Iranians, including me, but the sugarpacked nuggets grow for only a very short period each year. We love them so much that when they are out of season we crave something to remind us of warmer months, and we make nutty Marzipan Berries instead, shaped like the fruit.
I was just 9 years old when I learned to make Honey Cashew Caramel Candies. My mom’s brother used to assemble them just a few hours before guests arrived so he could serve them while the chunks of nuts were fresh. I loved being his souschef. It’s one of my fondest childhood memories, and now when I think about making sweets, these candies are what inevitably come to mind.
One of the most popular confections during Nowruz celebrations is baghlava. It differs from baklava you may have had because ours is traditionally made with an olive-oil dough rather than thin sheets of phyllo dough, which is more common in Turkey and Eastern Europe.
Iranians enjoy their baghlavas all year, of course. The most spectacular ones — small, bitesize diamonds, densely packed with pistachios and almonds — are baked in Qazvin and Yazd. These renditions have become so famous that they are widely distributed and available throughout the country, although anyone returning from a visit to these cities is expected to bring some home.
Regional sweets seem to be our most sought-after souvenirs, but you don’t have to be Iranian to enjoy them as I do. Makes 25 pieces Other nuts can be used in-
stead of cashews, such as almonds, peanuts or pecans. But be sure to use the pistachio slivers as well.
Make ahead: You’ll need to steep the saffron, which takes about 10 minutes. The candies can be stored in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks; they may soften if the environment is especially humid.
1⁄4 cup canola oil (may substitute 4 tablespoons unsalted butter) 3 tablespoons pure honey 1 cup (192 grams) granulated sugar 1 cup roasted, unsalted cashews 2 tablespoons steeped saffron 1⁄4 cup slivered pistachios
Stir together the oil, honey and sugar in a medium saucepan over high heat; cook, stirring constantly, until the sugar has completely dissolved.
Add the cashews; stir gently to try to keep them intact, but if some break while you stir that’s OK. Add the steeped saffron; cook for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring and reducing the heat as needed, just until the mixture is golden brown. Keep warm over low heat.
Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone liners.
Scoop 1-teaspoon portions of the hot cashew mixture onto the baking sheets, making sure each one has at least a cashew half or some pieces. Space the portions at least 1 inch apart. Quickly add a few pistachio slivers to each one, before the caramel has a chance to set.
Cool completely before serving or storing.
Note: To steep the saffron, combine 1 teaspoon of crumbled saffron threads and 2 tablespoons of hot water in a small bowl. Cover and let it sit for 10 minutes.
Per piece (using oil): 100 calories, 1 g protein, 12 g carbohydrates, 5 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 0 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 10 g sugar
Persian Baklava (Baghlava)
35 to 40 servings
This is one of the most popular sweet treats in Iran.
Sometimes, dried rose petals are used to decorate these, as well pistachios.
You’ll need a standard rimmed baking sheet. The dough also can be mixed by hand (this takes about 10 minutes) or with a stand mixer.
Make ahead: The dough needs to rest for 1 hour, and the baked baklava takes about 1 hour to set up. It can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 weeks.
For the syrup
2 cups granulated sugar
1 cup water 1⁄3 cup rosewater, preferably Cortas brand
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
For the crust
1⁄2 cup whole milk 3⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus 3 tablespoons for brushing and more as needed (may substitute melted unsalted butter)
2 large eggs
1 tablespoon syrup
2 cups sifted unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more as needed
For the filling
1 pound ground almonds/almond
flour
1 cup granulated sugar (may
substitute powdered sugar) 3 tablespoons ground cardamom 2 tablespoons ground cinnamon 1 pound ground pistachios Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing 1⁄4 cup slivered pistachios, for decorating
For the syrup: Combine the sugar and water in a medium saucepan over high heat, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Once the mixture begins to boil, stir in the rosewater and lime juice. Remove from the heat.
For the crust: Combine the milk, oil, eggs and 1 tablespoon of the syrup (you just made) in a food processor, pulsing until well incorporated. Gradually add the all-purpose flour; pulse or process until a nonsticky dough forms, adding small increments of extra flour as needed.
Divide the dough in half, placing each portion in its own bowl. Cover the bowls with a clean towel and let them rest at room temperature for 1 hour. The doughs will not double in size, but they should become somewhat firm, which will make them easier to shape.
Meanwhile, make the filling: Whisk together the almonds or almond flour, the sugar, cardamom and cinnamon in a mixing bowl.
Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Generously brush a rimmed baking sheet with oil. Lightly dust a work surface with flour.
Use a rolling pin to roll out one portion of the rested dough on the work surface, as thin as possible. Carefully transfer to the baking sheet, letting any extra dough hang over the sides. Spread the filling mixture evenly over the dough, pressing it gently into the dough.
Spread the ground pistachios evenly over the layer of filling, pressing them gently into the almond filling. Lightly brush or dab the pistachio layer with oil.
Re-dust the work surface and roll out the remaining dough as before. Transfer it to top the layers on the baking sheet, pressing the dough evenly all over, then press the overhanging edges of the top and bottom layers together to seal them firmly together all around the baking sheet. Tuck the edges under, as needed. (You will be cutting away these thick edges after baking.)
Use a sharp knife (and maybe a straight-edge ruler) to cut the baklava into 35 to 40 diamondshaped or square pieces. They should be of equal size. Generously brush the top surface of baklava with more oil; bake (middle rack) for 25 to 35 minutes, until the crust is golden.
As soon as you transfer the baking sheet to a wire rack to cool, pour the rest of the syrup evenly all over the baklava, allowing it to get into all the cracks and edges as you work. While the syrup is still quite sticky, sprinkle a few pistachio slivers at the center of each piece of baklava.
Let cool for a few hours before serving.
Ingredients are too variable for meaningful nutritional analysis.
Chickpea Cookies
Makes 40 one-inch cookies
These are tiny, delicate, meltin-your-mouth treats.
You’ll need a 1-inch cookie cutter; a flower shape is often used. If you don’t have one, simply roll the dough into small balls and then decorate with the slivered pistachios.
Make Ahead: The cookies can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.
1⁄2 cup vegetable oil or melted unsalted butter 3⁄4 cup powdered sugar
2 teaspoons ground cardamom 1 teaspoon rosewater, preferably Cortas brand 1 3⁄4 cups sifted chickpea flour, plus more for rolling 1⁄4 cup slivered pistachios, for garnish
Whisk together the oil or melted butter, the sugar, cardamom and rosewater in a mixing bowl until smooth and creamy. (If you use an electric mixer for this, beat on medium speed for 3 minutes.)
Gradually add the chickpea flour over the course of 10 minutes, to create a smooth dough that is not sticky. If you’re mixing by hand, dust a work surface with chickpea flour, then knead the dough for 10 minutes, adding more chickpea flour as needed. If you’re using an electric mixer, beat on medium speed for 10 minutes, stopping to scrape down the bowl a few times, as needed. Wrap the dough tightly in plastic wrap and let it rest at room temperature for about 20 minutes.
Heat the oven to 300 degrees. Line a baking sheet or two with parchment paper or silicone liners.
Dust the work surface with a little more chickpea flour. Unwrap the dough; use a rolling pin to roll it out to a thickness of about 1⁄2 inch. Cut out shapes with your small cookie cutter. Decorate each cookie by sticking a pistachio sliver in the center of each one.
Arrange the cookies on the baking sheet(s), spacing them 1 inch apart. Bake one sheet at a time (middle rack), for 15 to 20 minutes, until the bottom edges of the cookies are lightly golden. Transfer the baking sheet to a wire rack; cool the cookies completely before serving or storing.
Per cookie: 110 calories, 2 g protein, 11 g carbohydrates, 6 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 20 mg sodium, 1 g dietary fiber, 5 g sugar
Marzipan Berries
Makes 30 pieces These tiny festive treats, hand-molded in the shape of mulberries, are surprisingly easy to make.
Make ahead: The marzipan berries can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.
1⁄2 cup granulated sugar 1 cup finely ground almonds/almond flour 2 teaspoons ground cardamom 1⁄2 cup powdered sugar 2 tablespoons rosewater, preferably Cortas brand, or more as needed 2 tablespoons slivered pistachios
Place the granulated sugar in a medium bowl.
Combine the ground almonds/almond flour, cardamom and powdered sugar in a mixing bowl. Gradually add the rosewater, stirring constantly, to form a soft dough. If the mixture seems too dry, add up to 1 more teaspoon of rosewater.
Use a 1-teaspoon scoop to create 30 equal portions, molding each one into a (smooth) blackberry shape as you work. Roll each one in the granulated sugar, until evenly coated. Insert a pistachio sliver into the stem end of each marzipan berry, to complete the visual effect. While you are working, cover them securely with plastic wrap to keep the marzipan berries from drying out.
Per piece: 45 calories, 0 g protein, 6 g carbohydrates, 2 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 0 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 5 g sugar