Houston Chronicle

9 other great spots for Peking duck in Houston

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YAUATCHA

5045 Westheimer; 713-357-7588; yauatcha.com/houston

It’ll cost you, but the Peking duck at swanky Yauatcha is unlike any other in the city. The preparatio­n is a multiday process that involves marinating the skin, sealing it with a red-wine-vinegar-andmaltose solution, followed by two days of dry-aging. The aged ducks are roasted daily, then basted to order in hot oil to achieve an extra-crispy skin with all the fat rendered. Prior to serving, the entire 5-pound bird is presented to the table on a silver platter before it’s taken back to the kitchen and carved up into 16 uniformly sized rectangula­r pieces of crispy duck skin. Each piece, in turn, is laid atop a thin pancake, smear of hoisin, thinly sliced cucumber and scallions, so that the final product is a tray of 16 ready-to-eat, sublime morsels that fairly melt in the mouth. Each order also includes is a second stir-fry course, prepared with choice of XO sauce or black bean sauce. $118/whole duck; $238/whole duck with 1 ounce of caviar

REGAL SEAFOOD 12350 U.S. 59 S., Stafford; 281-494-8888

Order the whole Beijing Duck at Regal Seafood in Stafford, and you’re in for a show. The whole bird is wheeled to the table suspended from a custom carving stand angled at 65 degrees. The duck is then meticulous­ly carved and laid piece by piece on two large serving plates, one for each duck breast, and served with two types of pickles, scallion, housemade hoisin sauce and 10 house-made pancakes (pro tip: Ask for the extra-thin kind). The style here is a Beijing-Cantonese fusion. Chef Theresa Mo says that the duck cavity is marinated for extra flavor and juiciness, and each slice contains equal parts crispy skin and duck meat (traditiona­l Beijing-style would have more skin and minimal duck meat). As a second course, you can choose between duck lettuce wraps or duck bones drizzled with duck juices from the pan. $42.99/whole duck in two courses; $25.99/half duck in two courses

SPICY GIRL MIDTOWN 917-B Winbern; 832-6237990; spicygirlt­x.com

For whole Peking duck inside the Loop, head to Spicy Girl in Midtown and order the house specialty Beijing Duck. There’s a special section on the menu that describes how the duck is dipped, poached, then hung to dry for 12 hours prior to roasting. The restaurant makes only 12 per day, so calling ahead to reserve is essential. Chef Richard Sun or another chef sporting a toque and pristine chef ’s whites will carry the gold

en-brown bird to the table on an ornate silver platter. It’s then carved tableside and served with steamed bao buns, hoisin sauce, thinly sliced cucumbers and scallions (pancakes are available on request). The carcass is then returned to the kitchen, where the bones are chopped up to make a second course of milky-colored duck soup cooked with ginger, tofu and scallions. Additional meat from the duck is turned into a third course of dry stir-fry with dry whole chiles, bean sprouts, onion and scallion, complement­ed by steamed white rice. $56/whole duck in three courses

FUNG’S KITCHEN

7320 U.S. 59 S.,

No. 115; 713-779-2288; eatatfungs.com

It’s been nearly three decades since Hoi Fung opened his eponymous restaurant, and he’s been serving Peking duck since the beginning. This is an award-winning dish that has been perfected over time. All of Fung’s chefs know how to prepare it, so that it’s consistent­ly delicious whether you drop by for a midweek meal or order it as part of a multicours­e family dinner on weekends. Fung is painstakin­g about his duck, sourcing the plump, 7-pound birds from a single, trusted farm. Each piece of crisp, flavorful skin is sliced with a good amount of juicy meat on the underside and arranged in a square atop a large round platter. The standard order comes with 10 fluffy bao buns, hoisin sauce and scallions; pancakes are available in lieu of buns upon request. Duck lettuce wraps are available as a second course. $30/whole duck; $45 whole duck in two courses

PEKING DUCK RESTAURANT

5901 Westheimer; 713-953-9999; uspekingdu­ck.com

Tucked away in the corner of a strip mall at Fountain View and Westheimer next to Spotlight Karaoke, this still-new restaurant’s name implies its specialty. The history of Peking duck is explained in detail just inside the entrance on a large sign, and two large yellow duck statues reinforce the theme. The “Luxury Peking Duck Combo” comes in three courses. The first, sliced duck, is served with the thinnest and most delicate pancakes you’ll find in Houston, made from specially imported flour from China. Six pieces of duck skin are laid out next to a small saucer filled with sugar, and you’re advised to dip a piece of the skin in the sugar for your first bite. Duck soup is the second course. The third, in which the duck carcass is cut up into meaty chunks and dry-fried with salt and pepper, is a highlight, tasting a lot like roasted squab. $50/whole duck in three courses

PEKING CUISINE

8332 U.S. 59 S.; 713-988-5838; pekingcuis­inehouston.com

This stalwart Chinese restaurant employs the traditiona­l method of preparing Peking duck, in which air is blown between the skin and fat, thereby separating the two parts so that the fat gets completely rendered during the roasting process. Peking duck aficionado­s will be impressed by the paper-thin skin, and by the fact that it comes with pancakes automatica­lly. A second course of duck soup is included. The restaurant routinely sells out of its signature dish, so unless you plan on arriving for an early dinner, call ahead to reserve. $35/ whole duck in two courses

ARCO SEAFOOD

9896 Bellaire, Suite K; 713-774-2888; arcoseafoo­d.com

Fresh off a recent remodel, this small Cantonese restaurant in the heart of Asiatown has a reputation for consistent quality cuisine across the board. Its Peking duck, prepared in a more Cantonese style, is competentl­y executed so that the skin is extra thin and crispy with the fat completely rendered. Like most places, Arco serves its bird with steamed bao buns, hoisin sauce, cucumbers and scallions. With each order, patrons may choose between a soup or stir-fry with bean sprouts as a second course. $44.95/whole duck in two courses

ALY 11360 Bellaire; 281-575-7888

Read any of the online reviews for this nondescrip­t, no-frills stripmall restaurant online, and the dish that’s mentioned over and over again is its Peking duck. Attractive­ly presented in the shape of a flower, the duck in the center is surrounded by fluffy white steamed bao buns. Though the skin is crispy, the thick-cut slices more closely resemble roast duck than Peking because equal emphasis is placed on the skin and the flesh. Still, the dish is a major crowd-pleaser and remains one of the most affordable versions in town. $30.25/whole duck

SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 9116 Bellaire; 713-988-7288

This mom-and-pop restaurant has been serving delicious Cantonese cuisine to discerning diners for the better part of three decades — and though Peking duck is not its specialty, it’s one of many dishes that the owner executes extremely well. This spot is one of just a few places in Houston that allows diners to order half a duck. Each order comes with the crispy-skinned fowl, steamed bao buns, hoisin sauce and green onions. $43.90/whole duck; $21.95/ half duck

 ?? Photos by Mai Pham / Contributo­r ?? Peking duck at Yauatcha is carved into 16 rectangula­r pieces.
Photos by Mai Pham / Contributo­r Peking duck at Yauatcha is carved into 16 rectangula­r pieces.
 ??  ?? At Regal Seafood in Stafford, a whole duck is wheeled to the table suspended from a carving stand angled at 65 degrees.
At Regal Seafood in Stafford, a whole duck is wheeled to the table suspended from a carving stand angled at 65 degrees.
 ??  ?? Spicy Girl in Midtown makes only 12 of its version of the duck dish per day, so call ahead to reserve.
Spicy Girl in Midtown makes only 12 of its version of the duck dish per day, so call ahead to reserve.

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