Eugene’s Gulf Coast Cuisine

Restaurateur Kyle Teas has re-created his popular Danton’s in a new building with a new name

Restaurateur Kyle Teas re-creates popular Danton’s in a new building with a new name.

THE CONCEPT

Kyle Teas has taken the menu from his former Danton’s Gulf Coast Seafood and transferred it to the former Mockingbird Bistro site in the Montrose/ River Oaks neighborhood. So, Danton’s food and service in an elegant new home.

THE SPACE

Guests enter Eugene’s from the wood-paneled bar area — yes, Danton’s old “oyster bar” neon sign made the trip. The doubleheight dining room behind the bar is now clad in white and gold-striped wallpaper, gold wall sconces, decorative goldrimmed Limoges porcelain plates and plenty of goldframed mirrors. Overhead are Mockingbird chandeliers (originally from Sonny Look’s) that suggest a King Arthur’s court majesty.

THE FOOD

Eugene’s menu is faithful to the original Danton’s doctrine: impeccable Gulf oysters, seafood gumbo and oyster stew, stuffed redfish, shrimp etouffee and oak-wood-grilled steaks — haute culinary traditions born from Texas-meets-Louisiana foodways. To be sure, there’s barbecue shrimp, crab fingers, boudin balls, Crab Danton ( jumbo lump tossed in garlic remoulade), baked tasso oysters, chicken and sausage gumbo, crab au gratin, crabstuffed shrimp, seafood courtboullion, pecancrusted trout and Mardi Gras shrimp and red beans and rice.

THE DRINKS

There’s greater emphasis on New World wines than at Danton’s and a broader appreciation for craft cocktails, especially classic renditions of martinis, Manhattans and Old Fashioneds. Try the Bloody Danton, a spicy Bloody Mary made with gumbo roux, or Hurricane Clare, a take on the New Orleans classic made with pomegranate juice, rum, banana and peach liqueur and orange juice.

THE WORD

“This is food I grew up with,” said Teas, whose large family on both sides enjoyed coming together over dinner. “We kept everything from Danton’s. We have not changed a thing.”

ONE MORE THING

Eugene is Teas’ father’s name and his own middle name.

THE DETAILS

1985 Welch, 713-807-8883; eugeneshouston.com. Open 4-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday. Lunch starts on Nov. 1.

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Photos by Gary Fountain / Contributor Soft shell crab appetizer at Eugene’s Gulf Coast Cuisine at 1985 Welch.

Oysters on the half shell

Guest enter Eugene’s through the remodeled bar area.

Owner Kyle Teas and his daughter, Bailey Teas

Campechana of shrimp, crab and avocado