Guard and Grace
THE CONCEPT
Massive, modern steakhouse with big-city panache comes to Houston from Denver-based TAG Restaurant Group, whose founder, chef Troy Guard plans to bring more of his concepts to H-town. The grand steakhouse at One Allen Center makes a good fit in this city of big wallets, hefty egos and outsize ambitions. THE SPACE
The 15,000-square-foot colossus is a soaring, two-story space with enormous windows framed by 30-foot gauzy bronze sheers. Overhead, 4,600 bronze rods create a textural canopy — a metallic sky curtain dips and arcs above the dining room set on multiple levels and done in shades of gray and blue. The sleek space was designed to wow. THE FOOD
Guard has added dishes he says will appeal to the Houston palate, such as roasted Texas redfish on the half shell with lump crab, shrimp and Pontchartrain sauce; whole deboned grilled red snapper with a lush tomato sauce enlivened with Asian flavors of shrimp paste, caramelized shallot, Thai chiles and fish sauce; oak-smoked chicken with preserved lemon salsa verde; Texas fried quail with Fresno chile hot sauce and buttermilk dressing; gochujang barbecue pork ribs with charred scallions and pickled vegetables; and wagyu bone marrow served with short rib marmalade and smoked aioli. Also on the menu: tuna sashimi with jalapeño, ponzu and black lava salt; prosciutto tasting flight; lobster and shrimp roll with yuzu aioli; oakfired octopus with white bean and celery salad and Spanish chorizo; Szechuan rack of lamb; crab bearnaise gnocchi; and hamachi crudo with jalapeño, truffled yuzu sauce and a sprinkle of pop rocks. And steaks galore: Prime filet mignon, New York strip, dry-aged bone-in New York strip and 21-day dry-aged bone-in rib-eye; Angus filet mignon, hanger steak, porterhouse and prime rib; and wagyu filet mignon, rib-eye and New York strip. Guard has entrusted his new baby to CIA-trained executive chef Daniel Virola, formerly of Houston’s True Food Kitchen. THE DRINKS
Wine list includes bubbles, lofty whites and big reds by the glass. House martinis include Colfax & Holly, a dirty vodka martini with a rosemary, gorgonzola and prosciutto-stuffed olive; Careless Whisper made with Tito’s Vodka, elderflower and citrus; and Goodie Proctor, a marriage of Tanqueray Gin, Italian liqueurs and yellow chartreuse. ONE MORE THING
With Houston in mind, Guard created Millionaire Fajitas, a theatrical presentation of charred rib cap wagyu served with huitlacoche and gold (yes, gold leaf ) tortillas, charred peppers and onions and a side of green chile enchiladas. It fetches the oil-baron price of $400. Surely, the most expensive fajitas in Houston. THE DETAILS
500 Dallas at One Allen Center, 346-326-0789; guardandgrace.com/houston. Open for dinner starting at 4 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays; 5-11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Lunch (11 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays through Fridays) will begin Dec. 2. At that time, social hour also will debut, 3-6 p.m. Mondays through Fridays.