Houston Chronicle

PERFECT PORK LOIN

- By Chuck Blount STAFF WRITER cblount@express-news.net

The versatile meat lets you get crazy with jalapeño cream cheese, Ruffles chips and more.

When it comes to cooking for a crowd, I usually go with pork. It’s hearty like beef but a lot less expensive — especially now.

One of the best cuts is the pork loin, a jack-of-alltrades piece of meat that is cut from the backbone of a pig. A 3-pound pork loin at the grocery store will cost about $10 at current market prices.

If you know little to nothing about making good meat, loin is a good place to start.

Pork loin can make a strong case as one of the most versatile meats in the protein universe. It can be grilled, smoked or baked, and it pairs well with herbs and sauces.

Grocery stores sell a large variety of loins marinated with flavors such as lemon pepper, teriyaki and garlic infusions if you don’t have the time to do it yourself. They taste great and can be finished on a hot grill in about 30 to 45 minutes.

Loin is also fantastic on the smoker, cooked low and slow with a dusting of dry rubs over hardy woods such as oak, pecan and mesquite.

Visually, they’re not great raw; a bag of pork loin looks like a giant tongue coming out of the vacuum-sealed bag. It is really lean, so it’s important to find a way to incorporat­e some fat before cooking it.

An easy and decadent way to add that fat is to cook two loins together with something high-fat in between, such as cheese, then tie it all together for what I like to call a “Poor Man’s Porchetta.”

One of my favorite variations is to layer cream cheese in between the two loins, then wrap them in bacon. The fat from the cheese and bacon blanket will keep the meat moist on the grill or smoker. Once they hit 140 to 145 degrees, allow them to rest at least 10 minutes.

There are many variations of this technique. I have seen recipes for loins stuffed with Italian sausage or chorizo. I have also done one loaded with the all-time great pairing of French onion dip and Ruffles potato chips.

You could go the baked potato route, stuffing the pork with sour cream, chives, shredded cheddar cheese and bacon bits. A gooey applicatio­n of queso flameado or a good pimento cheese would be heavenly. Chopped fruits or preserves such as pineapple, apple and mango can provide a unique flavor combo, too.

Or you could keep it simple, with a spice blend that allows the flavorful meat to be the star. But that’s not nearly as fun.

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 ?? Photos by Josie Norris / Staff Photograph­er ?? Bacon-Wrapped Smoked Pork Loin Bomb gets its kick from jalapeño cream cheese.
Photos by Josie Norris / Staff Photograph­er Bacon-Wrapped Smoked Pork Loin Bomb gets its kick from jalapeño cream cheese.

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