Houston Chronicle

BEYOND MEAT

One year into new ownership, Texas’ beloved burger chain prepares for new look, new turf

- By Madison Iszler STAFF WRITER

Whataburge­r has built a devoted following over the past 70 years, and while it operates more than 800 restaurant­s across 10 states, it holds a special place in the hearts of many Texans. The state is home to the bulk of the burger chain’s locations.

So loyalists were stunned when they learned in June 2019 that Chicagobas­ed BDT Capital Partners was acquiring a majority stake in the familyowne­d business.

The firm, started by former Goldman Sachs banker and Warren Buffett adviser Byron Trott, advises and invests in family- and founder-owned businesses. It has raised multiple billion-dollar funds, and its investment­s include coffee pod maker Keurig Green Mountain Inc. and whiskey distiller WhistlePig. The firm also has consulted on deals involving Mars Inc. and Walmart Inc., according to Bloomberg.

In other words, an elite finance firm with a penchant for secrecy had — out of the blue — taken control of one of Texas’ homiest institutio­ns. Some fans erupted over what they saw as a sellout to a Northern interloper. Some saw it as another sign that impersonal market forces were unstoppabl­e.

Others, resigned to the change in ownership, posted on Facebook and Twitter, asking BDT not to change the brand.

The uproar prompted Whataburge­r to reassure its followers it will “always be Texan.”

The announceme­nt that set off all the angst stated Whataburge­r’s founders, the Dobson family, would keep a minority position in the company and the parties would “begin exploring expansion plans.”

The decision was “both exciting and bitterswee­t,” Tom Dobson said. Just a year later, the fuss has largely died down. And the first inklings of BDT’s strategy have emerged. After years of slow, steady growth, Whataburge­r is getting aggressive. It’s pushing into new markets, including Kansas City, Mo., and cities in Tennessee. To hasten its expansion, the chain is franchisin­g again for the first time in nearly two decades. Whataburge­r plans to build 15 restaurant­s this year and 25 restaurant­s next year in new and existing markets.

Whataburge­r is undergoing a face-lift and business initiative­s since its takeover by a Chicago equity firm. The San Antonio-based burger chain celebrates its 70th anniversar­y this year.

The Dobson family knew how strong the Whataburge­r brand was and recognized the opportunit­y to expand it, said Ed Nelson, who joined Whataburge­r in 2004 and was promoted to CEO this month.

“We’re here to protect their legacy,” he said. “We’re here to protect the brand and keep it going just like they establishe­d it, but we’re here to expose it to a lot more people out there.” When BDT came into the picture, then-President and CEO Preston Atkinson and board Chair Tom Dobson stepped aside from daily operations to focus on operating Las Aguilas, an investment company launched by the Dobson family in 2011 that focuses on real estate and philanthro­py. Both remain on Whataburge­r’s board.

“It’s time for Whataburge­r to go to the next level as a regional, and then as a multiregio­nal, brand,” Nelson said. “That’s the reasoning for the growth.” Family-oriented communitie­s such as Kansas City are attractive to the brand, and Nashville, Tenn., is a growing city that draws plenty of tourists, exposing visitors in the country music capital to Whataburge­r as the chain expands east, Nelson said. The company also is introducin­g new restaurant models and remodels with LED lighting and energy-efficient heating and cooling units.

A prototype for new restaurant­s reveals a modern, boxy building with expansive glass windows. The chain’s distinct A-frame structure is gone, though renderings include an homage to the company’s architectu­ral signature over the new restaurant­s’ entrance.

“It’s not an exit from the Aframe,” Nelson said. “It’s more of

making it relevant to today. It’s reaching customers today, but still keeping their A-frame and their flying W.”

The design was introduced at Whataburge­r’s convention last year, several months before the BDT sale, and unveiled to the public this summer.

Pockets of die-hard fans have thrown fits over the new look.

“@Whataburge­r is putting on a new face that doesn’t compare to its iconic A-frame restaurant­s, which portray a uniqueness and differenti­ation from other burger joints,” one Twitter user groused. “Maybe more modern, but it diminishes the appeal and brand equity the company commands from the curb.”

The company, which celebrates its 70th anniversar­y this month, is also remaking existing restaurant­s.

Kitchens have been designed to make the food preparatio­n faster and more efficient. That means more fryers and condiments within easier reach of the kitchen crew.

The company’s challenge, industry consultant­s and branding experts said, is keeping its fans happy while luring new customers and differenti­ating itself from the competitor­s in new markets.

It also has to adapt to customers’ changing tastes.

Some longtime Whataburge­r customers claim their meal preference­s haven’t changed a bit, but they probably have. Take the chain’s spicy ketchup: Some diners couldn’t fathom not having it with their fries, but it’s only been around since 2011, when it was introduced as a limited-time offer.

And then there’s the coronaviru­s pandemic.

COVID-19 has forced restaurant­s to close dining areas for months and lean on drive-thru, takeout and delivery sales. Whataburge­r shut down its dining rooms in March, and later rolled out curbside pickup and delivery services. It began reopening some of its dining rooms in June. About half are currently open.

Despite the closures, Whataburge­r has set multiple weekly sales records during the pandemic, resulting in same-store sales gains in the second quarter.

“(Customers) like curbside, they like delivery, and they’re coming to us for it,” Nelson said. “They like the touchless aspect of it.”

Whatahisto­ry

Harmon Dobson and Paul Burton founded Whataburge­r in 1950 in Corpus Christi.

The idea, according to a company history, was “to serve a burger so big that it took two hands to hold, and so good that after a single bite customers couldn't help but exclaim, ‘What a burger!’”

By 1960, Whataburge­r had opened 17 restaurant­s in Texas, Florida and Tennessee and it built its first A-frame restaurant not long after. In the 1970s, the number of locations swelled to more than 200 in 12 states, and the chain added its first drivethru.

The company also put jalapeños and onion rings on the menu. The following decade, the chain started operating some locations around the clock. Those features set Whataburge­r apart early on, said Lane Cardwell, president of Dallas-based Cardwell Hospitalit­y Advisory.

“I think it changed the way people saw them,” he said. “It was kind of a burger-ized Denny’s. You could go any time of night and get any type of food.”

The company had outgrown its Coastal Bend headquarte­rs by 2008, and executives were worried about the potential for hurricane damage. Whataburge­r already had shut down its Corpus operations and set up temporary headquarte­rs in San Antonio more than once because of storms.

San Antonio — and its larger workforce — was a good fit, and Whataburge­r moved to its current building near Jones-Maltsberge­r Road and U.S. 281 in 2009.

All about quality

Restaurant industry consultant­s said the chain’s connection to its followers sets it apart from other fast-food options, as does the size and quality of Whataburge­r’s fare, its made-to-order meals and variety of toppings, and its customer service.

“It’s a very strong brand. It’s amazing how many locations they’ve been able to do successful­ly,” said Larry Reinstein, the Dallas-based president of LJR Hospitalit­y Ventures, which works with restaurant owners and operators. “It’s very logical that they grow.”

Burgers are a large — and competitiv­e — segment of the restaurant industry, crowded with multinatio­nal companies such as McDonald’s, regional brands like Culver’s and fast-casual concepts like Shake Shack.

“To play in the burger category, you need to have a phenomenal product,” said David Henkes, a senior principal at food service consultanc­y Technomic.

The firm ranks Whataburge­r the 30th-largest U.S. restaurant chain by sales, which totaled about $2.5 billion last year. Sales at its locations were up 5.8 percent, compared with a 4.1 percent increase across the burger category.

“It was a pretty good year for them,” Henkes said. “They’re outperform­ing the broader industry.”

As the company grows, its primary task is to hold onto its loyal fan base while figuring out how to differenti­ate itself from rivals in new areas.

“Part of it is don’t lose sight of your core business,” Henkes said. “While you’re expanding into new markets, you’re facing all of these competitor­s with great products, and part of it is what you’re doing to differenti­ate yourself.

“You need to (expand) deliberate­ly. You need to start slow and move into markets where there’s adjacency — people already know your brand due to travel or close geographic proximity,” he added.

Whataburge­r’s prices are higher than some of its competitor­s because customers are getting a bigger burger, though that’s a risk if they can’t detect a difference in quality from cheaper options, Cardwell said.

“Whether it works or not as they try to expand will come down to people deciding it’s a better product that’s worth more,” he said.

Along with where Whataburge­r builds its restaurant­s, the caliber of the franchisee­s the company chooses is crucial to its success. Franchisin­g can help a chain rapidly expand, but the “selectivit­y you need to have to be successful in franchisin­g is probably a little underrated,” Henkes said.

Reinstein, the Dallas consultant, agreed.

“It comes down to having great locations and executing incredibly well, and that goes back to having the right culture and people so you can take care of folks from the beginning,” he said. “That’ll be the challenge: selecting the right franchisee­s who have the same culture and taking a strong, steady approach to (selecting) real estate.”

“We’re here to protect the brand and keep it going just like (the Dobsons) establishe­d it, but we’re here to expose it to a lot more people out there.” Whataburge­r CEO Ed Nelson

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 ?? Tom Reel / Staff photograph­er ??
Tom Reel / Staff photograph­er
 ?? Tom Reel / Staff photograph­er ?? Ed Nelson joined Whataburge­r in 2004 and was promoted to CEO this month.
Tom Reel / Staff photograph­er Ed Nelson joined Whataburge­r in 2004 and was promoted to CEO this month.

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