These leeks are anything but humble
The past year had made me a more flexible cook: more democratic, less judgmental. It got me thinking about the way certain vegetables are described, the adjectives they are often associated with. Why is an eggplant deemed “mighty,” for example, while leeks are often prefaced with the word “humble?”
Now more than ever, as we’re all making as much as we can from the groceries we have at home, I want to create space to move beyond these distinctions. My love for all things eggplant may indeed be “mighty,” but my enthusiasm for the “humble” leek is anything but modest.
The star of this dish, leeks have an amazing ability to transform from one thing (when raw) to another (when cooked), something they share with their fellow alliums: onions, shallots and garlic.
Think about garlic. When raw, a single, minced clove is harsh and metallic. A little goes a long way in a dressing. Compare this, then, to the 10 cloves of garlic in this confit leeks recipe. On the other side of a low-and-slow cooking process, these cloves are sweet and mellow enough to eat whole. The difference between these outcomes makes me think a more suitable adjective for any allium — if pressed to label — would be “magical.”
Alliums’ potential is often harnessed to great effect for the background notes of a dish. Consider chopped onion or crushed garlic, both of which begin so many soups, stews and sauces. Or those leeks, which can bring comfort to a cheesy pie or tart. In this recipe, on the other hand, alliums are front and center, with leeks standing upright, pert and proud, and calling unapologetic attention to themselves.
Here, too, they add “versatile” to their credentials, showing what can happen when they’re cooked, then blitzed with a little cream, mustard and lemon juice. But they’re humble and confident enough to pair with another so-called humble thing: the wholesome, hefty and toothsome lentil. return to the oven to bake until completely softened, about 35 minutes more. Turn the oven temperature up to 400 degrees.
As the leeks bake, fill a medium saucepan about two-thirds of the way with water and bring to a boil over high. Add the lentils and cook until just tender but not mushy, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain well and set aside.
When ready, remove the confit leeks from the oven and transfer a heaping ½ cup/100 grams of the cooked leeks plus 5 of the garlic cloves to a bowl for the leek cream. Add the cooked lentils to the remaining leeks in the baking dish along with ¼ teaspoon salt and a good grind of pepper; mix gently to combine. Cover again with the foil and return to the oven for 15 minutes. Remove the foil and leave to settle for 10 minutes. Discard the thyme sprigs.
While the lentils bake with the leeks, make the cream: Add reserved leeks and garlic to a food processor along with the heavy cream, mustard, 1 tablespoon lemon juice and 1⁄8 teaspoon of salt; blitz until smooth.
When ready, stir the remaining 4 tablespoons lemon juice and the chopped herbs into the lentil and leek mixture. Transfer to a rimmed platter and serve with the leek cream in a bowl alongside. Makes 4 servings