Houston Chronicle

Four great dishes from across the area to treat yourself to

- By Alison Cook STAFF WRITER

Triple Threat Coconut Chocolate Cake, Good Vibes Burgers & Brews

Really dark, deep chocolate cake with a satiny icing is something for which I am always on the lookout. The version at Good Vibes, known for its serious, cheffy Angus burgers, gets a profession­al touch in the form of a glossy, dark-as-night buttercrea­m that’s supple enough to qualify as a ganache. It’s a tribute to chef Eric Nelson’s background in fine dining. The third element of the “triple threat” is a wellmade chocolate gelato. I ate mine on the spot, in the restaurant, served by itself while I had them pack the cake to go. That meant by the time I was ready to eat it, it was in peak form, at room temperatur­e, so that the textures were relaxed and the flavors plumped up. Birthday quality stuff.

Good Vibes Burgers & Brews, 1329 E. Broadway, Pearland, 832-569-4141; goodvibesb­urgers.com

Vada Pav, Nirmanz Food Boutique

I smile just thinking about this spunky little sandwich done in the Indian chaat — or streetwise snack food — vernacular. Part of my affection springs from the spicy, herbal quality of the fried potato cutlet that anchors the dish. It’s the size of a tennis ball, and it squishes down nicely when you bite through the surroundin­g downy, butter-grilled rolls. Well calculated trimmings like green chutney, red onion and a sprinkle of crunchy red masala mix make the whole thing dance.

Order a side of raita to cool things off, sip an aromatic masala tea, and enjoy the captivatin­g visual effects of chef Nirman Shah’s highly personal restaurant, which covers the bases from Delhi- and Mumbai-style chaat to substantia­l vegetarian and meat entrees.

Nirmanz Food Boutique, 16338 Kensington, Sugar Land, 832-5320699; nirmanz.com

Chicken Pita, Craft Pita

The hook at this Tanglewood­area Lebanese spot is the use of

fine local ingredient­s by chef Rafael Nasr and his Peruvian wife, Claudia. So their chicken pita sandwich stars pulled rotisserie chicken that’s conscienti­ously raised by Naked Truth, and the difference from basic frozen, pre-cut gyro-style chicken is enormous.

Craft Pita’s chicken is almost fluffy, still in possession of its juices, with a clear, distinct flavor. And the fixings rolled up with it are just so: crunchy red cabbage, serious tomato, pickles, hunks of roasted potato and a riveting garlic aioli. Get a side of the zippy tabouli to go with it; and a memorable pink lemonade flavored with just a whisper of rosewater. Efficient curbside service is a plus, too.

Craft Pita, 1920 Fountain View, 832-804-9056; craftpita.com

Sandwich of the Day, Montrose Cheese and Wine

I’ve been happy with every sandwich du jour I’ve scored from Montrose Cheese & Wine, the retail shop that’s a sibling to Rosie Cannonball and March restaurant­s. Sometimes I take one of these paper-wrapped prizes home and eat it later, preferably at room temperatur­e. But the other day, when I stopped by the shop to pick up some of March’s bottled vermouth infused with their farm herbs and fruit, I grabbed a sandwich to eat out on their gorgeous little breezeway, which I had all to myself.

That sandwich was pretty perfect, stacked with Genoa salami and good provolone, sparked up by a bright red pesto and racy pickled fennel, both made in house. Even better, in honor of the shop’s second birthday, a special menu featured five magnum wines by the glass. A slightly chilled Italian red, the Freisa blend Poderi Cellario “Vasco,” was the smart suggestion of staffer Evan. Drink what she tells you to. Then grab a couple of custardy little pastels de nata to take home.

Montrose Cheese & Wine, 1618 Westheimer, 832-380-2461; montrosech­eeseandwin­e.com

 ?? Alison Cook / Staff ?? Dark chocolate cake with coconut and glossy, supple buttercrea­m from Good Vibes Burgers & Brews in Pearland.
Alison Cook / Staff Dark chocolate cake with coconut and glossy, supple buttercrea­m from Good Vibes Burgers & Brews in Pearland.
 ?? Alison Cook / Staff ?? Vada Pav at Nirmanz Food Boutique in Sugar Land: spicy, herbal potato cutlets with chutney and red onion on butter-grilled rolls.
Alison Cook / Staff Vada Pav at Nirmanz Food Boutique in Sugar Land: spicy, herbal potato cutlets with chutney and red onion on butter-grilled rolls.
 ?? Alison Cook / Staff ?? Chicken pitas (at lower left and center) from Craft Pita in Tanglewood, which uses fine local ingredient­s.
Alison Cook / Staff Chicken pitas (at lower left and center) from Craft Pita in Tanglewood, which uses fine local ingredient­s.
 ?? Alison Cook / Staff ?? This sandwich du jour at Montrose Cheese & Wine had Genoa salami, provolone, farm greens, red pesto and pickled fennel.
Alison Cook / Staff This sandwich du jour at Montrose Cheese & Wine had Genoa salami, provolone, farm greens, red pesto and pickled fennel.

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