Houston Chronicle

Veggie dumplings show how good canned mushrooms can be

- By Aaron Hutcherson

Grabbing a bag of dumplings from the freezer is a routine that many of us turn to regularly to feed ourselves in a pinch. While their convenienc­e is unparallel­ed, the almost meditative process of filling and folding homemade dumplings yourself can be a much needed respite at the end of the day.

Typically, pork dumplings are my go-to when it comes to fillings, but this pantry-friendly version featuring canned mushrooms, bamboo shoots, hoisin sauce and chili-garlic sauce has shown me that there are other, meat-free paths to dumpling deliciousn­ess.

One of the things I love about coming up with these pantry recipes is that it forces me to try out new-to-me ingredient­s, such as the canned mushrooms used here. You can sometimes find different varieties depending on where you shop, but the most common are button mushrooms sold as either slices or a mixture of pieces and stems (either is fine for this recipe since the contents are getting thrown in a food processor). They have a wonderfull­y chewy texture compared to fresh that I find works particular­ly well in this applicatio­n.

To prepare the filling, start by rinsing the vegetables to remove some of the salt brine they were packed in, and then give them a good squeeze to get rid of as much excess moisture as you can. (A watery filling would make the folding process a nightmare.) Then finely chop them in a food processor (or by hand if you don’t have one) and mix them with hoisin sauce and chili-garlic sauce. If you’re not familiar with hoisin, sometimes referred to as Chinese barbecue sauce, it adds lots of depth and umami with just a couple of tablespoon­s. And chili-garlic sauce brings some bright heat to the mixture, but you can reduce or omit it if you don’t like spice.

Now it’s time to assemble the dumplings.

I know people who sometimes love to go the extra mile by making dumpling wrappers from scratch — all you need is flour and water — but the convenienc­e of store-bought wrappers is almost a must on a weeknight. (I typically find them in the freezer section, but some stores sell them refrigerat­ed in the produce section.) One at a time, dollop a spoonful of the mushroom mixture in the center of each dumpling wrapper, dip your finger in a small bowl of water and wet the edges of the wrapper, then seal and fold as best as you can. Dumpling folding can be an art form, but don’t worry if you take a simpler approach or yours look more like a kindergart­en art project. Though we may eat with our eyes first, these mushroom dumplings will taste delicious regardless of how they look.

This recipe makes about 20 pieces, but you can easily scale it up to feed a crowd. If you do, enlist their help with the folding to turn it into a group activity and get dinner on the table faster. Then fry, steam and serve them up with your favorite dipping sauce.

Instead of pork, this pantry-friendly version features canned mushrooms, bamboo shoots, hoisin sauce and chili-garlic sauce.

 ?? Scott Suchman / For the Washington Post ?? A spoonful of the mushroom mixture goes in the center of each dumpling before it is sealed.
Scott Suchman / For the Washington Post A spoonful of the mushroom mixture goes in the center of each dumpling before it is sealed.

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