Trattoria Sofia
THE CONCEPT
Restaurateur Benjamin Berg’s stamp on the Houston scene grows again with this rustic Italian restaurant in the Heights, named for his daughter. Berg Hospitality Group opened NoPo Café in June, adding to a portfolio that includes B&B Butchers & Restaurant, B.B. Lemon, The Annie Café & Bar, and Turner’s.
THE SPACE
The former Presidio location has been fashioned into a romantic space meant to evoke a neighborhood trattoria in Florence or Rome — think vine-covered stucco walls, steel-and-glass windows, and antique furnishings throughout the bar, main dining room and covered patio.
THE FOOD
Executive chef LJ Wiley, who Houston foodies might remember from his work at Yelapa, oversees the menu; chef and master bread maker Magnus Hansson helped consult. Starters include bruschetta (Sicilian pesto, and crispy shrimp with arrabbiata sauce), dips (whipped ricotta, and toasted pumpkin and chickpea) and antipasti (salumi, mixed olives, fire-roasted fontina and prosciutto, and cacio e pepe cheese fritters). There are pizzas (spinach, kale, basil and dill with smoked chili and lemon zest; prosciutto and ricotta; and classic margherita), and pastas (cacio e pepe; bucatini with Sicilian pesto; pasta alla Norma with a spicy tomato and eggplant sauce; and campanelle with lamb ragu). Entrees include chicken parmigiana; veal Milanese; pan-seared swordfish with olives, capers, pine nuts and lemon; and pan-fried shrimp with a smoky tomato sauce.
THE DRINKS
Julep bar owner Alba Huerta created the cocktail list that includes the Amaro Colada (rum, amaro, coconut cream and pineapple); Bergamot Margarita (tequila, lime and bergamot liqueur); Jasmine Fizz (rum, jasmine honey, lemon juice, egg white and soda); Truffled Gibson (gin, vermouth, orange bitters and onion brine with truffle oil); and Modena Cup (Pimm’s, strawberry, blood orange syrup and white balsamic vinegar).
THE WORD
“We want this concept to bring something entirely new to Houstonians by allowing them to explore the regions of Italy through their dining experience,” Berg said. “When people come in for a meal, they’ll truly feel like they’ve left Houston.”
THE DETAILS
911 W. 11th, 713-804-0429; trattoriasofia.com. Open 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday-Tuesday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday