Houston Chronicle

Instant coffee boom offers Brazil a big opportunit­y

- By Marvin G. Perez and Tatiana Freitas

As inflation drives up global coffee prices, cheaper robusta beans are in hot demand — and Brazil may be just the market to supply it.

Although the production of robusta traditiona­lly falls largely on No. 1 supplier Vietnam, farmers there haven’t been able to increase output fast enough to meet soaring consumer demand. While its production plateaus, the world’s second biggest robusta grower is picking up speed. Brazil’s output is expected to reach an all-time high this year, with the U.S. Department of Agricultur­e forecastin­g its robusta production will climb 5 percent this year as Vietnam inches lower.

“Brazil has plenty of room to increase coffee production by converting pastures into robusta crops,” said Fernando Maximilian­o, an analyst at StoneX Financial in Sao Paulo. “Vietnam has no room to expand.”

Robusta coffee, used widely to make instant coffee like Nestle’s Nescafe brands or as a blend in espressos, was once seen as a poorer alternativ­e to higher-end arabica beans, which are traditiona­lly favored by companies like Starbucks. But it’s been making a comeback, especially for its convenienc­e and improving taste. Consumers globally still drink more arabica-based beverages, but with households and companies dealing with the worst inflation in more than four decades, more buyers are giving the lower-priced robusta bean another look, despite its reputation for overpoweri­ng strength and bitterness.

Because single-origin arabicas are very expensive, a portion of robusta is often added to espresso-based beverages prepared away from home, contributi­ng to the rising demand. In the U.S., the consumptio­n of espresso-based beverages have shot up 30 percent since the start of the pandemic, signaling not just recovery from the crisis but also new growth, according to a survey released in March by the National Coffee Associatio­n. Internatio­nal demand for instant or soluble drinks has also been growing, including in Asia and Eastern Europe.

The pricing gap between arabica and robusta has only widened in recent years, largely due to crop issues. Last year, Brazil’s output of the mild-tasting arabica beans plunged due to drought and frost. Shipping bottleneck­s have only added to the woes.

As Brazil’s arabica production stalls, robusta is taking off. Robusta is a sturdier and bigger plant, can grow in hotter places, is more resistant to drought — and has roughly double the amount of caffeine. At the same time, its production has turned more profession­al, yields have increased and farmers are expanding to new areas.

Planting of robusta trees has been increasing in northern states such as Rondonia and Mato Grosso, but growth potential may be hampered by the competitio­n with grain farmers for the land, according to Guilherme Morya, an analyst at Rabobank in Sao Paulo.

“Brazil’s robusta potential is huge. The only issue is that it’s rivaling with grains, where margins have been spectacula­r,” he said.

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