Houston Chronicle

WHAT TO KNOW

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Mimo, 736½ Telephone, Tlaquepaqu­e Market

Food: Lovingly made Italian dishes from chef-owner Fernando Rios, skillfully paired with wines by co-owner Mike Sammons.

Vibe: Laid-back Eastwood refectory with a personal, neighborho­od feel.

Prices: Moderate.

Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday, Dinner 5-10 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday. Reservatio­ns: Via Resy; walk-ins welcome; counter seating.

Who’s there: Dressed-down mix of East Enders and foodies, drinking good wines and table-hopping.

What to order: Castelfran­co radicchio salad with preserved-lemon miso vinaigrett­e; potato-and-prosciutto fritters (crochette) with salsa verde; any of the lunch sandwiches (paninos); fettucine with mortadella, ricotta, peas, pistachio and lemon; orecchiett­e with crispy pancetta and roasted cherry tomatoes; spaghetti with shrimp; mozzarella in carozza; panna cotta with cara cara orange and mint.

Service: Hospitable and eager to please; still a work in progress as the restaurant hits its stride.

Mixtape: Eclectic picks from co-owner Sammons, long on R&B and ranging from Captain Beefheart to the Rugged Nuggets to reggae queen Dawn Penn.

Noise level: Quiet to moderate.

Vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free options: Not indicated as such on the menu, so you’ll have to ask, but choices exist in all three categories.

Parking: Plenty in the big, free lot in front of the restaurant. Note: The lot is hidden from the street, so turn off Telephone into Tlaquepaqu­e Market, drive past Bohemeo and jog left.

Ventilatio­n: Average HVAC in a long, airy space.

Outdoor seating: No.

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