WHAT TO KNOW

Navy Blue, 2445 Times Blvd., 713-347-7727

Food: Immaculately detailed seafood dishes done with French technique in a Gulf Coast spirit.

Vibe: Big-city sophistication, from the urbane crowd to the sleek room to the kind of orderly, open-to-view kitchen that inspires confidence. Prices: Expensive. Apps $20-$39; entrées $24-$68 (most in $40s); desserts $15-$32

Hours: Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 5-10:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday; 5-9:30 p.m. Sunday. Lunch: 11:30 a.m..-2 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday. Brunch: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday-Sunday. Reservations: Advised, via Resy; some walk-in opportunities, particularly in the bar/lounge.

Who’s there: Well-heeled, stylishly dressed-down crowd that seems to pull from the Rice University/Museum District/West University Place surroundings, with gaggles of trendy young foodies for fun.

What to order: Half-shell oysters; hamachi tartare; madai snapper crudo with white peach, aguachile & ginger; burrata tartine; grouper sandwich; spaghetti vongole; lobster ravioli with favas and Madeira; swordfish au poivre; mint bomb; peach panna cotta.

Service: Polished, full of information and ever-present.

Mixtape: Classic and modern jazz. Noise level: Moderate to very loud as the night wears on, when it’s full. Ventilation: Good; high ceilings help. Vegetarian, vegan & gluten-free options: All available, although not marked on the menu. Ask one of the exceptionally well-versed servers to guide you.

Parking: Valet; Rice Village pay garages; some (very) limited street parking nearby.

Outdoor seating: Small covered sidewalk patio.