Kale potato salad

Chunks of potatoes plastered and speckled with kale, full of that unmistakable potato salad-dy flavor of summer. Here at the end of spring, we can still find cool enough days to serve it warm, as a comforting bowlful. After a day in the fridge, meanwhile, it will improve. I like to fry the leftovers in the greasy presence of chopped bacon.

• 4 cups diced red potatoes (they hold together best), peeled or not

• 4-ish cups of kale (or other fibrous greens). Stripped from the center vein and chopped. Optional: chop of the ribs, which are tougher, to cook with the potatoes. If using frozen kale, it should be thawed.

• 2 cups stock

• ½ cup olive oil (or more, to taste)

• ¼ cup white vinegar

• ½ tablespoon mustard powder

• 1 teaspoon dried thyme

• ½ teaspoon celery seed

• 1 teaspoon ground or dried rosemary

• ¼ teaspoon black pepper

• 2 garlic cloves, and more to taste, minced or grated

• ½ cup minced onion

• ½ cup minced celery

• 1 cup finely diced cheddar cheese. Good, flavorful cheddar. Like an aged raw milk

• Salt, to taste

• Optional: red pepper flakes

Boil potatoes in the stock or water with 3 tablespoons of olive oil. About 10 minutes in, add any chopped kale rib you care to.

While the potatoes are cooking, make the dressing. Combine remaining oil, vinegar, mustard powder, herbs and garlic. If using whole dried herbs, powder them between your fingers as you add them. Shake vigorously in a closed jar or otherwise stir very well.

When the potatoes are nearly tender, add the kale and stir it in with a scooping motion so as not to crush the potatoes. When the liquid is gone, turn off the heat.

If serving warm, finish the recipe immediately. If serving cold, let the potatoes and kale cool first.

To finish, add the onion, celery, cheddar, pepper flakes if using and dressing, and toss the salad. Add more salt and/or oil to taste. If serving cool, it’s best to make kale potato salad a day ahead. Just make sure to make extra, or there won’t be enough.