Las Vegas Review-Journal (Sunday)

More athletes embracing vegan diet

Getting enough protein not issue, experts say

- By KRISTEN HARTKE

“I don’t want to be vegan,” David Carter once said to his wife. “That’s for weaklings.”

At the time, Carter was an NFL defensive end, weighing in at more than 300 pounds. Growing up in Los Angeles, he was raised on barbecue at his family’s restaurant and felt that meat was his source of strength, so there was no way that he’d ever adopt his wife’s vegan diet.

That is, until he started to experience health issues that affected his career, which ended in 2015.

“I had been big and strong,” Carter says. “But … I was taking medication for high blood pressure and suffering from nerve damage” and as a result, he had a hard time doing bench presses and pushups. On Feb. 14, 2014, his attitude suddenly changed: “I was drinking a milkshake and watching the (animal rights documentar­y) ‘Forks Over Knives.’ And I just thought to myself, ‘That’s it, I’m done.’ I got up, threw out the milkshake and went vegan.”

For many athletes who have switched to a vegan lifestyle, the change was prompted by reasons similar to Carter’s. Poor health plagued Rich Roll before he adopted a plant-based diet and began a career as a world-class ultramarat­honer in his 40s. And tennis star Venus Williams chose a raw vegan regimen five years ago after being diagnosed with Sjogren’s syndrome, an immune-system disorder that caused her joint pain, fatigue and shortness of breath.

Along with these stories comes a common query from incredulou­s nonvegans: “How do you get enough protein?” “It’s always the first question,” laughs Torre Washington, a bodybuilde­r who has been following a vegan diet for 18 years. “But you really don’t need protein to get shredded and lean. I’m looking for nutrients and focused on variety.”

Indeed, vegan athletes including Washington and 10time Olympic medalist Carl Lewis — who retired from athletic competitio­n in 1997 and has said that athletes have “the worst diets in the world and compete in spite of it” — tend to agree that athletes should put an emphasis on increased calories when in training, as opposed to more protein.

“I’ve never met a patient who has had a protein deficiency,” said sports dietitian Susan Levin, who is also a vegan and recreation­al runner. “It’s really a nonissue.”

Ashley Koff, a registered dietitian, agrees that “we tend to overemphas­ize the amount of protein that we need,” but she says that a plant-based diet of vegetables, fruit, grains and legumes may not be enough for many athletes. Williams, for instance, calls herself a “cheagan” because she occasional­ly cheats by indulging in cheese, yogurt or even fish.

“Plants play a primary role,” Koff says, “but what we have to remember about all athletes is that all of our digestive systems and our bodies work differentl­y. I like to say that you are not what you eat; you are what you digest and absorb.” That means that she might build organic pasteurize­d eggs into an athlete’s diet because it’s a highly absorbable protein, but not, say, cheese.

Levin is director of nutrition education for the nonprofit Physicians Committee on Responsibl­e Medicine, which promotes nonmeat and nondairy nutrition. She cites the federal government’s Dietary Guidelines for Americans as an appropriat­e starting point.

It recommends that about 10 percent of total daily calories be protein, meaning roughly 200 calories in an ideal diet. (Certain groups, such as athletes involved in intense physical activity and breast-feeding women, can increase protein consumptio­n to as much as 30 percent of total calories, the guidelines say.) The 10 percent recommenda­tion can be met quickly with a typical fourounce lean beef hamburger patty at between 200 and 300 calories, while a black bean burger might have half as many.

“Protein is actually a fairly small percentage of what goes into a healthy diet,” Levin says. “The emphasis really is on having a wide variety of nutrient-dense foods throughout the day, and because protein is found in varying amounts in plants, legumes, grains and nuts, it’s pretty easy to get to the recommende­d amount. Most athletes don’t need a different diet, they just need more calories.”

When Carter, who is 28, was in intense physical training, he was consuming 8,000 to 10,000 calories a day and looking to get about 300 grams of protein.

“It’s a lot of eating,” Carter says. “You’ve got to be focused to get that many calories in a day.” Once he made the switch to a vegan diet, he realized that all of the beans, grains, fruit and vegetables he was eating were helping him be big and strong, bench-pressing 465 pounds on a diet of bananas, lentils and cashew cheese.

“The biggest and strongest animals on the planet — elephants, gorillas, rhinos — are herbivores,” Carter says.

James Loomis, medical director of the PCRM’s Barnard Medical Center, which was opened earlier this year in Washington, admits that packing on calories with a vegan diet is still not easy for athletes.

“Some people struggle with it,” he says. “Try eating 1,000 calories of quinoa or blueberrie­s.”

Koff says, “The quality of what you put into your body is really critical for athletes — you want to get the most bang for every bite.”

Loomis, who served as team internist for the St. Louis (now Los Angeles) Rams and the St. Louis Cardinals before he got interested in plant-based medicine, saw profession­al athletes develop serious health problems at an early age by focusing only on eating a lot of calories.

“I call it ‘bro science,’” he says. “They’re thinking about getting big and strong without thinking about the long-term impact. But if we help develop healthy habits in younger athletes, it helps them in post-career.”

Inflammati­on caused by dietary choices, which can lead to a host of chronic diseases, is a common concern for Loomis, Levin and Koff, even if they don’t agree on the need for a completely vegan diet.

The feared loss of indulgent food is a topic that seems to come up often among both vegan athletes and curious omnivores.

“Your relationsh­ip with food becomes pleasing your palate versus making your body look good,” says bodybuilde­r Washington. “Even when I travel, I head straight for the local Whole Foods and start looking for the ingredient­s to make a spicy vegan pizza or pan-seared tofu with Japanese sweet potatoes. When you become a vegan, you become a foodie.”

Carter concurs. “I like to make junk food that’s not really junk food,” he says. “My favorite is nachos with couscous, beans and cashew-cheese queso. I’ve converted so many athletes with that cashew cheese — they eat it and say, ‘Man, that tastes just like real cheese, bro!’”

 ?? JACK DEMPSEY/THE ASSOCIATED PRESS FILE ?? David Carter, shown while a defensive lineman for the Cardinals in 2013, became an advocate for a vegan diet, even for top-level athletes, starting in 2014.
JACK DEMPSEY/THE ASSOCIATED PRESS FILE David Carter, shown while a defensive lineman for the Cardinals in 2013, became an advocate for a vegan diet, even for top-level athletes, starting in 2014.

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