Processions in Spain for Easter return

ZAMORA, Spain — Wailing bugles, rhythmic drumbeats and eerie religious chants can be heard again across Spain this year as the country’s popular Easter religious processions return after a two-year hiatus because of the COVID-19 pandemic.

During Holy Week, hundreds of thousands of people are expected to again pack the streets of cities, towns and villages across the country daily to witness parades that are a major tourist attraction, with some televised nationally.

The ceremonies see brotherhoods of “nazarenos,” or penitents, with tall conical hats, monkish robes and facial hoods escorting floats with sculptures of Jesus and the Virgin, many with a background of ancient streets and architecture.

Easter has always been a sacred holiday for Spaniards, and millions take to the road, many just to see the processions. But COVID-19 halted all that.

The pandemic struck early in 2020, and Spain was in a total lockdown at Easter. In 2021, some measures were lifted, but travel between Spanish regions was restricted and public gatherings banned.

Cristina Luisa Ensegundo, 29, is participating in her first Holy Week procession in the western city of Zamora. She is doing so in memory of her grandmother, María Carmen, who died from the coronavirus. María Carmen had bought herself a veil and hair comb, which women participants use to adorn stylish black dresses but, her granddaughter said, she never got to walk in the procession.

“When we were sorting her things I saw the hair comb and veil and I knew that I had to join the procession,” Ensegundo said about the procession of the Virgin of Hope Brotherhood she participated in on Thursday.

“When she died I said this could be a homage or a way to remember her. Since she had always liked this procession, I signed up” she said. “She is always with us, but this will make the day special.”

Nearly all pandemic restrictions are being scrapped, but authorities urge the use of masks when necessary during the gatherings.

While some women do take part, men form the majority of participants. Processions vary greatly, but nearly all include the hooded nazarenos.

Their odd conical hats are said to date to the Spanish Inquisition when prisoners were made to wear them. The covered faces helped sinners hide their identities.