Las Vegas Review-Journal (Sunday)
Short recipes for longer days
The one constant recently: The meals have to come together quickly. The longer days of spring are lovely, but the later-setting sun makes me lose track of time. Even if I had hoped to roast a whole chicken or bake a lasagna, I find myself glancing at the clock and gasping. I thought I still had plenty of time to cook! How did it get so late?
Having lost the minutes intended for heating up the oven, I opt for recipes that come together in the time it takes to make rice or cook pasta, and feel like a whole meal alongside stir-fried vegetables or a simple salad. Speedy recipes don’t come at the expense of taste. They may not develop the deep caramelization of slowly roasted anything, but quick-cooking on the stovetop or grill often delivers the kind of freshness we crave this time of year.
And, because these dishes are so fast, they leave plenty of time to enjoy the meal as the sun sets and to dream of even longer nights ahead.
Mushroom chicharrón tacos
By Jocelyn Ramirez
This simple recipe calls for pan-searing meaty oyster mushrooms so they become as perfectly crispy and golden as chicharrón. Paired with fresh pico de gallo, these mushrooms feel satisfying with their natural umami savoriness. This quick dish tastes like juicy carniceria tacos that balance the richness of fried meat with the acidic punch of salsa.
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 30 minutes Ingredients for the pico de gallo:
• 1 large beefsteak tomato, cored and cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 1 large ripe Hass avocado, pitted, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 2 jalapeños, stemmed and finely chopped (seeded if desired)
• 1/2 cup cilantro leaves, finely chopped
• 3 tbsp fresh lime juice (from 1 to 2 limes)
• Coarse kosher salt Ingredients for the mushroom tacos:
• 18 oz oyster mushrooms (from 2 to 3 medium clusters)
• 1/3 cup neutral oil, such as canola
• 1/4 tsp ground cumin
• 1 1/2 tsp coarse kosher salt
• Black pepper
• 12 corn tortillas
Preparation:
1. Make the pico de gallo: Combine the tomato, avocado, jalapeños, cilantro and lime juice in a bowl and season with salt. Gently fold together. Set aside to allow flavors to marry while the mushrooms cook.
2. Make the tacos: Tear the oyster mushrooms into bite-size pieces, leaving some mushroom tops whole. To make sure the mushrooms become crisp, cook in two batches: Heat a large cast iron or other heavy skillet over medium-high and coat with half of the oil. Once the oil is hot, add half of the mushrooms in a single layer without crowding the skillet. Cook, stirring every few minutes, until deep golden brown and crisp, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a plate, then repeat with the remaining oil and mushrooms. Return the first batch to the skillet, and add the cumin and salt, and season with pepper. Stir well, then remove from the heat.
3. While the mushrooms are cooking, warm the tortillas on a comal or heavy skillet over medium-high heat until soft and pliable. Wrap them in a dish towel to keep them warm until ready to serve. Divide the mushrooms and pico de gallo among the warm tortillas. Serve immediately.
Hara masala murgh (green masala chicken) By Zainab Shah
As is the case with every South Asian dish, variations of hara masala murgh abound. In the south of India, fresh desiccated coconut is used in place of yogurt, which is a common ingredient in the northern parts of Pakistan and India. The stalwarts of the dish across regions are copious amounts of fresh cilantro and mint — hence its name hara masala, which means green masala. In Lahore, it is commonly found on restaurant menus, and its peppery herbaceousness is a welcome reprieve from the tomato-onion gravies typical in Punjabi cooking. This version uses thinly sliced chicken breast. It also skips over the tedium of grinding almonds in favor of using almond butter. These two shortcuts mean a quicker cooking time and a creamy texture.
Yield: 2 to 4 servings
Total time: 30 minutes
Ingredients:
• 3 tbsp ghee or neutral oil
• 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
• 12 whole black peppercorns
• 1 tsp cumin seeds
• 1 lb chicken breasts, thinly sliced (about 1/4-inch thick)
• 1 tsp freshly grated ginger or ginger paste
• 1 tsp freshly grated garlic or garlic paste
• 1/2 tsp kashmiri red chile powder or other red chile powder
• 3/4 tsp fine sea salt
• 1 1/2 cups finely chopped cilantro leaves and tender stems
• 1 1/2 cups finely chopped fresh mint leaves
• 4 Thai green chiles, chopped
• 1/4 cup full-fat Greek yogurt or coconut milk
• 2 tbsp almond butter or other nut butter, stirred to combine
• 2 to 3 tbsp fresh lemon juice (from about 1/2 lemon)
• 1/2 tsp garam masala (optional)
Preparation:
1. Heat ghee or oil in a medium pot or wok for about 30 seconds over medium. Add the onion, peppercorns and cumin seeds. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion becomes translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the chicken, ginger and garlic, and cook on medium-high, stirring frequently until the chicken is no longer pink or fleshy and the onions have softened, about 7 to 10 minutes.
2. Lower the heat to medium and stir in the chile powder and salt. Continue cooking for about 30 seconds. Add 1 cup cilantro, 1 cup mint and the Thai green chiles, and stir until all the ingredients are incorporated.
3. Stir in the yogurt and almond butter. Turn off the heat and stir in the remaining 1/2 cup cilantro and 1/2 cup mint. Sprinkle with lemon juice and garam masala, if you like.
3. Shrimp and tomato pasta
By Naz Deravian
Frozen shrimp is a freezer staple that can be counted on to save dinner any night — simply thaw to use them whenever needed. Here, shrimp and spaghetti are tossed with juicy cherry tomatoes, which are gently simmered until they burst and turn saucy. This dish is best with ripe, in-season cherry tomatoes, but the aromatic fennel seeds and garlic infused in the oil will coax maximum flavor out of less enthusiastic tomatoes while adding depth to the sauce.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Total time: 40 minutes Ingredients:
• 8 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 lb peeled and deveined frozen shrimp (16/20-count), thawed and cut into thirds
• Kosher salt (Diamond Crystal)
• 3 large garlic cloves, gently smashed with the flat side of a knife
• 1 tsp fennel seeds
• 1/4 tso red-pepper flakes, or to taste
• 2 lbs cherry tomatoes, larger ones halved, small ones kept whole
• 1 lb spaghetti
• Handful of basil leaves, torn
• Black pepper Preparation:
1. In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium. Add the shrimp, season with 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until just cooked through, about 3 minutes. Transfer the shrimp to a dish and set aside. Discard any excess liquid in the pan.
2. Add the remaining 6 tablespoons oil and the garlic cloves to the same pan and cook over medium-low, turning the garlic a couple of times until light gold and fragrant, taking care not to burn them, about 4 minutes. Add the fennel seeds and red-pepper flakes, stir and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Increase the heat to medium and add the cherry tomatoes and 1 1/2 teaspoons salt.
3. Cook the tomatoes, stirring occasionally, until they release their juices and get saucy, 25 to 30 minutes. While the tomatoes cook, bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil for the pasta. Add the spaghetti and cook until al dente, about 10 minutes.
4. Transfer the shrimp with any juices to the tomatoes to reheat for a couple of minutes. Taste the sauce and adjust seasoning.
5. Set the pasta pot next to the saucepan and use tongs to transfer the spaghetti to the tomatoes and shrimp. The starchy water clinging to the spaghetti will make for a tasty and silky sauce. (You can drain the spaghetti, if you prefer. If you do, reserve 1/4 cup of the pasta water to add as needed for a silky sauce.) Remove the pan from the heat, add the basil and toss well. Season with black pepper to taste and serve.
4. Tofu and bok choy with ginger-tahini sauce By Kay Chun
This simple dish showcases the uniquely silky texture of soft tofu. The tofu is steamed on top of a layer of bok choy, eliminating the need for a formal steamer and making this meal a cinch to prepare. (Napa or savoy cabbage leaves would also make a nice bed for the tofu.) Once steamed, the warm, mild tofu soaks in all of the bright flavors of a tangy and creamy tahini sauce that’s spiked with aromatic ginger and fragrant herbs. For a heftier meal, either double the tofu or serve with a side of rice.
Yield: 4 Servings
Total time: 20 Minutes
Ingredients:
• 1 lb baby bok choy, quartered lengthwise through the core
• Kosher salt and black pepper
• 1 (14- to 16-oz) package soft (not silken) tofu, drained and cut into 4 equal squares
• 6 tbsp tahini
• 1/4 cup low-sodium soy sauce
• 3 tbsp distilled white vinegar
• 1 tsp minced ginger
• 1/4 tsp minced garlic
• 1/4 cup chopped scallions (from about 1 scallion), plus more for garnish
• 1/4 cup chopped cilantro, plus more for garnish
• Toasted white sesame seeds, for garnish
Preparation:
1. In a large skillet with a lid, arrange bok choy in an even layer to cover the bottom of the pan, and season with salt and pepper. Nestle the tofu pieces on top of or in between the bok choy, depending on the depth of your pan. Add 1/2 cup of water to the skillet and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover securely to prevent steam from escaping, reduce heat to medium and steam until bok choy is tender and tofu is warm throughout, about 10 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, in a small bowl combine tahini, soy sauce, vinegar, ginger, garlic, scallions, cilantro and 1 tablespoon of water. Whisk until well blended, and season with salt and pepper to taste.
3. Using a spatula or large slotted spoon, transfer bok choy and tofu to 4 serving plates. (Discard any remaining water in the skillet.) Spoon some of the sauce over the tofu and garnish with scallions, cilantro and sesame seeds. Serve warm.
5. Fish skewers with herbs and lime By Melissa Clark
In this simple, speedy recipe, meaty cubes of fish are marinated with fish sauce and red-pepper flakes, then lined up on skewers and grilled until seared at their corners, but still juicy and tender inside. Topped with herbs and lime juice, it’s a minimalist take that lets the flavors of good, fresh fish shine through. If you have a fish basket and would rather line up the cubes inside that, go right ahead. Just watch it carefully and adjust the cooking time if needed. If you’re looking to add a sauce, this is lovely served with some garlic-spiked yogurt on the side.
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 20 minutes, plus grill heating
Ingredients:
• 2 garlic cloves, finely grated, pressed or minced
• 1 tbsp fish sauce
• 1/4 tsp red-pepper flakes
• 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 lb thick, dense fish steaks, such as tuna or swordfish, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
• Lime wedges, for serving
• 2 scallions, white and green parts, trimmed and thinly sliced
• 1/3 cup chopped dill, mint, parsley, cilantro or a combination
Preparation:
1. Heat the grill to high. In a mixing bowl, combine garlic, fish sauce and red-pepper flakes. Whisk in oil. Add fish cubes and gently toss to evenly coat. Let marinate while the grill heats up.
2. Thread marinated fish onto metal or presoaked bamboo skewers (see tip), pushing them up so they touch. This keeps them from overcooking.
3. When the grill is hot, lightly brush the grates with oil and add the skewers. Cook until slightly charred in places, about 2 to 4 minutes, rotating them carefully halfway through.
4. Transfer to a serving platter, and immediately squeeze 2 or 3 lime wedges on top of the fish while still hot. Garnish fish with scallions and herbs, and serve with more lime wedges on the side.
Tip: Using traditional flat metal skewers is best, but not necessary. If using bamboo skewers, they must be soaked in water for at least 30 minutes before grilling to prevent flare-ups. Place bamboo skewers flat on a rimmed sheet pan and add enough water to cover.