JACKFRUIT

the World, where we always have vegan entrees and vegetarian entrees available,” the resort’s executive chef Rick Giffen says.

“We brought some jackfruit in about a month ago, and we’re going to be putting some things on our summer menus with it.”

Jackfruit is a fierce looking fruit native to southeast Asia. Covered in prickly spikes, it can grow to 80 pounds.

When cooking with it, the main rule of thumb is that age matters. The younger, green specimens are often described as flavorless, and easily absorb the taste of other ingredients. This and its meaty texture — reminiscent of artichoke hearts — make it a perfect meat substitute. As the fruit ripens, however, it develops a sweet, tangy taste, somewhere between a citrus fruit and pineapple.

Canned jackfruit is usually packed in brine when young, and syrup when ripe. Fresh specimens can be found, whole or cut into large segments, at Asian supermarkets throughout the valley, including 99 Ranch Market.

Because of the dramatic change in taste over the life of the fruit, the ripeness makes a big difference in how a dish made with it will taste. Some say the sweetness is always present to at least some degree.

“There’s a sweet note that goes throughout,” says V, whose restaurant uses the canned green variety. “So there’s still a little of sweetness to it, even though we put a lot of savory herbs and spices to it.” Fortunately, some recipes are more forgiving than others in this regard.

Whether you’re trying to cut back on meat, or you just want to experience a new Asian fruit, there are plenty of ways to explore jackfruit in the Las Vegas Valley. If you want to experiment with it at home, here’s a recipe from Giffen and the team at the Stratosphere. ASIAN JACKFRUIT LETTUCE WRAPS

WITH COCONUT HOISIN 2 tablespoons coconut oil 1 tablespoon sesame oil 1 tablespoon chopped shallots 2 pounds cleaned and chopped

BBQ pulled jack sandwich: Go Vegan Café (5875 S. Rainbow Blvd.) may have more jackfruit preparations on its menu than any restaurant in town. But the one that best embraces the fruit’s natural flavor is this sandwich, served with coleslaw and pickles between a pair of hearty sopapillas. The texture is reminiscent of pulled pork, and the natural sugar and tanginess of the fruit lend themselves to barbecue.

Pizza: Another reason to visit the Go Vegan Café, the chef uses the same Mexican preparation of jackfruit on these faux-cheese pizzas she does in her tacos and enchiladas. The flavor and texture are reminiscent of spiced black beans.

Smoothie: For a sweet jackfruit treat, try it in a smoothie at Chinatown’s Bambu (4810 Spring Mountain Road), which takes full advantage of the ripe fruit’s sugar, but only hints at its tartness. Go Vegan Café also offers a jackfruit, coconut and durian smoothie. But the almost offensively unripened jackfruit (fresh or canned in brine) 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger 1½ teaspoons minced garlic 2 tablespoons sambal chili sauce Pinch salt and pepper 1 tablespoon fish sauce (preferably 3 Crab brand) 2 tablespoons ponzu sauce 1 sliced fresh jalapeno 12 iceberg or butter lettuce cups 1½ cups rinsed mung bean sprouts 12 sprigs cilantro sprigs Coconut hoisin sauce (recipe follows) Heat saute pan and add coconut and sesame oils and then shallots, jackfruit, ginger, garlic, sambal, salt and pepper. Cook mixture until tender, then deglaze pan with fish pungent durian makes it a very acquired taste.

Tacos: By far the most popular preparation of jackfruit. The spicy yellow curry version at Owl (3990 W. Russell Road) uses canned fruit in a traditional Indian recipe. You can also find an Eastmeets-West take on them at downtown’s VegeNation (616 Carson Ave.) that combines traditional Southwest seasoning with a touch of Korean barbecue. While they use fresh young fruit, they soak it for 10-24 hours in barbecue sauce to add a sugary tart kick.

Curry: The valley’s definitive Thai restaurant Lotus of Siam (653 E. Sahara Ave.) offers two jackfruit dishes on its popular northern Thai menu. But this is traditional, not trendy, and neither is either remotely sweet or remotely vegetarian. Kang ka noon, for example, is described as a northern style curry, but features the fruit and your choice of pork or chicken in a thin spicy broth seasoned with a variety of Thai spices. It comes with a side of sticky rice. sauce and ponzu. Simmer until liquid is reduced, then fold in fresh jalapeno and scoop into lettuce cups; garnish with bean sprouts and cilantro. Serve with coconut hoisin sauce. Coconut hoisin sauce: 1 cup hoisin ½ cup Coco Lopez cream of coconut 1 tablespoon green curry paste 2 ounces honey 1 teaspoon ground ginger ½ teaspoon onion powder ½ teaspoon granulated garlic Whisk all ingredients very well until smooth and well blended.

Makes 1 pint. Contact Al Mancini at amancini@reviewjournal.com. Follow @AlManciniVegas on Twitter.