When coals are called for, so is fresh squid
As a confirmed squid lover, I have happily eaten more than my fair share, at home and on the road, in places hither and yon.
In Italy, it shows up in rustic fish soups, in fritto misto, simmered in a luscious squid-ink sauce for the most exquisite spaghetti or risotto. It’s also frequently found as perfectly fried calamari, served with a lemon wedge.
Throughout Asia, fresh squid features in dishes of every sort. On my first trip to Thailand, I encountered air-dried squid as a favorite street-food snack. The vendor first toasts the squid over charcoal, then rolls it paper-thin with a hand-cranked machine. A large sheet of flattened squid emerges as crisp as a potato chip, ready to dip in a sweet-and-spicy sauce. In Japan, raw squid (or its cousin, cuttlefish) is a popular choice at sushi bars — beautiful white translucent slices draped over the sweet rice.
In Spain, the squid is extraordinary, especially the tiny chipirones, which are fried whole. On tapas bar menus, squid is often prepared à la plancha: sizzled on a hot griddle with garlic and parsley. And there are amazing canned specialties.
Here in the United States, most fish markets have cleaned squid among their offerings, either fresh or frozen. My fishmonger always has fresh-caught, which I prefer. You can choose between tubes (bodies) or tentacles — both are delicious — but I like a mixture of both.
While everyone loves crisp, deep-fried calamari, it’s worth discovering other ways to cook squid. It’s marvelous grilled, and, with grilling season in full swing, now is the perfect time to give it a try.
It’s a simple matter of coating the bodies and tentacles lightly with oil and laying them on the grill over a brisk bed of coals. If your grill rack has widely spaced bars, skewer the tentacles to keep them from falling through. The bodies can simply be turned with tongs.
Depending on the size of the squid, you’ll need to cook them for about four minutes per side. Any size can be prepared this way, but meaty larger pieces work best. They are done once they puff up and are firm to the touch, but leave them on the heat long enough to brown nicely, even to char a bit. Do the same with the tentacles.
You can serve grilled squid as is, with a knife and fork. But let the farmers market help decide. The other day, I found first-ofthe-season Romano beans, hot chilies and cilantro, so the result was a spicy salad marrying beans and squid, perfect for sultry weather.
Spicy grilled squid and green bean salad Yield: Time: Ingredients:
4 servings
30 minutes
1 pound large squid, whole bodies (tubes) and tentacles, cleaned
Salt and pepper
3 to 4 tablespoons peanut oil or other vegetable oil
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil 3 tablespoons lime juice or rice vinegar
1 tablespoon Asian fish sauce or 2 teaspoons finely chopped anchovy 1 tablespoon finely chopped ginger 2 garlic cloves, minced
1 jalapeño chili, seeds removed to lessen heat if desired, chopped or thinly sliced
1 red Fresno chili, seeds removed to lessen heat, chopped or thinly sliced
1 pound tender green beans or Romano beans, ends trimmed (topped and tailed)
1/2 cup slivered scallions, both white and green parts
1 small bunch cilantro, leaves and tender stems roughly chopped, plus a few sprigs reserved for garnish
Rinse squid with cold water, drain and pat dry. Transfer to a baking sheet in one layer. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon peanut oil. Season squid on both sides with salt and pepper, and season tentacles. (If they are small, thread them onto bamboo skewers.) Make sure everything is lightly coated with oil. Set aside.
Prepare a charcoal grill, or heat a stovetop grill to medium-high. Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil.
Make the vinaigrette: In a small bowl, whisk together 2 tablespoons peanut oil, toasted sesame oil, lime juice and fish sauce. Stir in ginger, garlic and half the jalapeño and Fresno chilies (or less, if chilies are very hot).
Drop beans into boiling water and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, until firm tender. Drain, spread out on a baking sheet lined with a kitchen towel. Cool to room temperature.
Lay the squid bodies on the grill and cook for 3 to 4 minutes per side, until lightly browned (bodies will puff up). Grill tentacles until firm and slightly charred, turning with tongs, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer cooked squid to a cutting board. Let cool slightly, then cut bodies crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Cut tentacles in halves or quarters, if large; otherwise leave whole.
Place green beans and squid in a large bowl. Sprinkle lightly with salt, add vinaigrette and toss to coat with wooden spoons. Add remaining chilies, scallions and cilantro and toss again. Taste and adjust seasoning as necessary. Transfer to a serving platter. Garnish with cilantro springs.
Preparation: 1: 2: 3: 4: 5: 6: