SNACK WAGON
meat, shave white truffles and spoon sauces tableside while chatting with guests.
Michael was a little nervous.
“It’s a little bit overwhelming, to be honest with you,” the chef said shortly before service began. “Bryan and I both work in our restaurants. We’re guys on the line cooking, we’re not just guys walking around shaking hands. So for us, I think the hardest part is going to be splitting our time between being able to talk to the guests tonight and making the food. Because we’re sort of control freaks in that regard.”
That is the type of interaction Harvest executive chef Roy Ellamar envisioned when he introduced the guest chef series in 2016. It’s why, instead of asking them to create a traditional menu, he puts his guests in charge of
the restaurant’s roving dim sum-style snack carts for an evening.
“People were doing pop-up chef dinners and things like that,”
Ellamar explains. “I always wanted to do things like that in the restaurant, but something that’s not such a commitment for the chef, time-wise, as doing a whole sit-down dinner. I wanted it to be something more fun, and more organic, and something where you can interact with the chefs, as a guest.”
The first chef to take over the carts was Ben Jenkins, at the time the executive chef at Michael Mina’s eponymous Bellagio restaurant.
He enjoyed it so much he persuaded his boss, Mina, to come in for a Snack Wagon Takeover himself.
Since then, Ellamar estimates 30 to 40 chefs have participated in the series. Most have been from MGM Resorts International properties, either in Las Vegas or elsewhere. They include celebrities such as Shawn
Mcclain, Rick Moonen, Todd English and Charlie Palmer.
But he’s also opened Harvest to visiting celebrities such as New York’s Paul Liebrandt, as well as off-strip
Las Vegas sensations including Dan Krohmer of Other Mama, Flock and Fowl’s Sheridan Su, Brian Howard of Sparrow + Wolf and District One and Le Pho chef Khai Vu. (Justin Kingsley Hall of The Kitchen at Atomic Liquor has just been confirmed for February 8.)
The only prerequisite to participate appears to be that Ellamar be a fan of your cooking.
“We put the egos down and everybody just makes their food and we have a good time,” he says. “I think that’s what cooking with friends and cooking with other chefs should be like.”
Contact Al Mancini at amancini @reviewjournal.com. Follow @Almancinivegas on Twitter.