Classic summer salad has a crisp, cool-weather twist
A satisfying salad of tuna and beans is a Mediterranean favorite, often served as a meal in warm weather. In my favorite version, the main ingredients — rich tuna and creamy beans — are accented with red wine vinegar, tomato and onion, finished with a flourish of extra-virgin olive oil.
At the moment, with no ripe tomatoes on the horizon, I offer this cool-weather variation, which features thinly sliced raw fennel, and fresh tuna seared in a cast-iron skillet. Using best-quality canned tuna is certainly an option, but the texture and flavor are quite different. While fresh tuna may be a bit of a splurge and take longer to prepare, the divine results are worth the cost.
As for the beans, freshly cooked dried white beans are preferred — I always take the opportunity to proselytize for dried beans, which have a better texture and more flavor than canned — and, with a little advance planning, easy to pull off. Cannellini or gigante beans, covered in cold water just before bedtime, take only about an hour to simmer the next day. Still, beans from a can will suffice. Drain the cooked (or canned) beans, and season them with salt, lemon and plenty of olive oil. (In fact, white beans dressed this way are delicious as an accompaniment to nearly any dish.)
Tuna is expensive, but you don’t need much: 2 to 4 ounces per serving is plenty. So your salad can be bean heavy or tuna heavy, depending upon how flush you’re feeling; it will be delicious either way. The main thing is to get the seasoning right. After salting it, I like to coat the fish with a generous amount of crushed fennel seed and black pepper. If I have it on hand, I’ll amp up the floral flavor with a little dried fennel pollen.
To sear the tuna, get a castiron pan scorching hot. The cooking takes only about two minutes per side. I want the tuna to be quite rare, nearly raw at the center, but feel free to cook it more if you like. Or follow New York chef Jody Williams, who serves a tuna and bean salad I admire at her restaurant Via Carota; it is made with diced raw tuna.
For the fennel, look for smooth, pale green bulbs that are not too big, with the feathery fronds still attached. Trim the fennel, removing the outer layer if it seems tough. Slice the fennel very thinly, with a sharp knife or mandoline, just before serving the salad. Dress it at the last minute with a lemony-garlicky vinaigrette, and arrange it over the room-temperature beans and tuna.
Of course, you can make this salad year-round. In the summer, the tuna can be grilled over coals, and you can add tomatoes, roasted peppers and small green beans if you wish.
But just now, the sweetness of crisp fennel is more than enough to welcome spring.
Seared tuna, white bean and fennel salad Yield: Total time: Ingredients:
4 to 6 servings
1 hour
1 to 1 1/2 pounds tuna fillets, in 2-inch-thick slices
Salt
1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1 teaspoon fennel seeds, toasted and coarsely ground
1 teaspoon dried fennel pollen (optional)
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 small to medium red onion 6 cups cooked cannellini or other white beans
4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, more to taste
1 teaspoon lemon zest
2 garlic cloves, pressed or minced to a paste
1/2 teaspoon crushed red-pepper flakes
2 smooth, pale green medium fennel bulbs
2 tablespoons freshly chopped parsley 1 tablespoon chopped fennel fronds
Season tuna generously on both sides with salt, then sprinkle with the black pepper, fennel seed and pollen (if using). Drizzle very lightly with olive oil and rub the seasoning into the fillets with your hands. Set aside at room temperature.
Peel and dice the onion and soak in ice water for 10 minutes (this will tame its bite). Drain the beans and put in a bowl. Add a generous sprinkling of salt and 2 tablespoons lemon juice and stir. Drain onions and add to beans. Stir in 1 tablespoon olive oil and toss to coat. Transfer to a serving platter and set aside at room temperature.
Make the dressing: In a small bowl, whisk together 2 tablespoons lemon juice, the lemon zest, garlic, a pinch of salt, crushed red pepper and 3 tablespoons olive oil.
Place a wide cast iron pan over high heat. When it is hot, add tuna. Cook for about 2 minutes, until a golden brown crust forms, then flip and cook for 1 to 2 minutes more. Take care not to let the spices scorch; reduce the heat if necessary. The exterior of the fish will be cooked, but the interior will be quite rare. For medium-rare, cook an additional 2 minutes on the second side. Remove from pan and transfer to a cutting board to cool.
Using a very sharp knife or mandoline, slice fennel crosswise into very thin slices. Salt lightly and toss with dressing. Arrange dressed fennel around the edge of the platter, surrounding the beans.
Cut the tuna in 1/2-inch slices and arrange over beans. Sprinkle with parsley and fennel fronds and serve at room temperature.
Preparation: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.