Las Vegas Review-Journal

Tall tales, resonant rhymes at Cowboy Poetry

- By Chris Wohlwend New York Times News Service

As a sellout crowd jostled its way into the first big show of the 34th annual National Cowboy Poetry Gathering on a late-january night in Elko, old friends backslappe­d one another and laughed about past gatherings. It was a rowdy, good-natured opening of what has become the premier celebratio­n of The Cowboy Way.

The atmosphere was not surprising — Elko, population about 18,000, sits in the northeaste­rn corner of Nevada, an oasis in the Great Basin’s high-desert terrain and the center of the area’s ranching lifestyle. And the gathering commemorat­es the end-ofthe-cattle-drive festivitie­s that defined the Old West, with camaraderi­e and all that the term encompasse­s: tall tales, poetry and songs, dancing, gambling, thick steaks and strong drinks.

Beaded buckskin and swirling skirts dominated the dress of the women, string ties and cowboy hats the men. But when the cowboys took their seats, the hats came off: The Cowboy Way dictates respect for other audience members — no one wanted to block views of Riders in the Sky and Wylie and the Wild West, the gathering’s kickoff musical entertaine­rs.

Most of the participan­ts and many of the attendees make their living as ranch hands, whether riding the range on horseback, herding sheep with quick-moving dogs or trying to manage acreage that is measured in square miles. Others come because of the event’s welcoming atmosphere.

Respect and courtesy, campfire storytelli­ng and poetry, musical harmony and yodeling: all are part of The Cowboy Way. And all are part of the herding life in general.

Excerpt from “Old Eagle Eyes” by Yvonne Hollenbeck:

He’s got eyes like an eagle for finding new calves that their mamas have hidden all snug; so why can’t he see the mud on his boots that he’s tracking all over my rug?

Elko, as the event’s name is short-handed, yearly draws an estimated 4,000 to 5,000 revelers from across the American West and beyond. Past participan­ts have included drovers from

 ?? KIM RAFF / THE NEW YORK TIMES ?? Visitors at the 34th National Cowboy Poetry Gathering socialize at G Three Bar in Elko. Heading into its 35th year, the National Cowboy Poetry Gathering is a heartfelt showcase for storytelli­ng, singalongs and good Basque cooking.
KIM RAFF / THE NEW YORK TIMES Visitors at the 34th National Cowboy Poetry Gathering socialize at G Three Bar in Elko. Heading into its 35th year, the National Cowboy Poetry Gathering is a heartfelt showcase for storytelli­ng, singalongs and good Basque cooking.

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