Las Vegas Review-Journal

YELLOWSTON­E FACES GLOBAL WARMING THREATS

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FUTURE, FROM PAGE 1:

that winter is, on balance, 10 days shorter and less cold.

“For the Northern Rockies, snowpack has fallen to its lowest level in eight centuries,” said Patrick Gonzalez, a forest and climate change scientist at the University of California, Berkeley.

Because snow is a cornerston­e of the park’s ecology, the decline is alarming to some ecologists.

Summers in the park have become warmer, drier and increasing­ly prone to fire. Even if rainfall increases in the future, it will evaporate more quickly, said Michael Tercek, an ecologist who has worked at Yellowston­e for 28 years.

“By the time my daughter is an old woman, the climate will be as different for her as the last ice age seems to us,” Tercek said.

Yellowston­e’s unusual landscape — of snow and steam, of cold streams and hot springs — is volcanic. Magma gives rise to boiling water and multihued thermophil­es, bacteria that thrive at high temperatur­es.

In 1883, The New York Times described the park as an “almost mystical wonderland.”

For many visitors, Yellowston­e represents the U.S. wilderness: a place with big, open skies where antelope and bison still roam.

“You run into visitors and they thank you for the place,” said Ann Rodman, a park scientist. “They are seeing elk and antelope for the first time in their lives.”

Rodman, who has been working in Yellowston­e for 30 years, has pored over temperatur­e and weather data. The trends surprised her, as well as the urgency.

“When I first started doing it, I really thought climate change was something that was going to happen to us in the future,” she said. “But it is one of those things where the more you study it, the more you realize how much is changing and how fast.

“Then you begin to go through this stage, I don’t know if it is like the stages of grief,” Rodman said. “All of a sudden it hits you that this is a really, really big deal, and we aren’t really talking about it, and we aren’t really thinking about it.”

Rodmanhass­eenvastcha­nges near the town of Gardiner, Montana, at the north entrance to Yellowston­e. Some nonnutriti­ous invasive plants such as cheatgrass and desert madwort have replaced nutritious native plants. Those changes worry Rodman and others: Give invasive species an inch, and they take miles.

Cheatgrass has already spread into the Lamar Valley. “This is what we don’t want — to turn into what it looks like in Gardiner,” Rodman said. “The seeds come in on people’s cars and on people’s boots.”

Cheatgrass can thrive in disturbed soils and can ignite “like tissue paper,” she said. It takes hold after fires, preventing native plants from regrowing.

If cheatgrass and its ilk spread, bison and elk could be affected. Cheatgrass, for instance, grows quickly in the spring. “It can suck the moisture out of the ground early,” Rodman said. “Then it is gone, so it doesn’t sustain animals throughout the summer the way native grasses would.”

In recent years, elk have lost forage when drier, hotter summers have shortened what ecologists call the green wave, in which plants become green at different times at different elevations, said Andrew Hansen of Montana State University.

Some elk now stay in valleys outside the park, nibbling lawns and alfalfa fields, Hansen said. And where they go, wolves follow. “It is a very interestin­g mix of land-use change and climate change, possibly leading to quite dramatic shifts in migration and to thousands of elk on private land,”hesaid.

Drier summers also mean that fires are a greater threat. The conditions that gave rise to the fires of 1988, when a third of the park burned, could become common.

By the end of the century, “the weather like the summer of ’88 will likely be there all the time rather than being the very rare exception,” said Monica Turner of the University of Wisconsin-madison. “As the climate is warming, we are getting fires that are happening more often. We are starting to have the young forests burn again before they have had a chance to recover.”

In 2016, a wildfire swept through trees in a section near the Madison River that had burned in 1988. Because young trees don’t have many cones on them, Turner said, they don’t have as many seeds to release to form new forest. The cones they do have are close to the ground, which means they are less likely to survive the heat.

Repeated fires could lead to more grassland. “The structure of the forests is going to change,” Turner said. “They might become sparse or not recover if we keep doing a double and triple whammy.”

Forests shade waterways, and those too are experienci­ng climate-related changes. “We can very definitely see warming trends during the summer and fall,” said Daniel Isaak of the U.S. Forest Service. “Stream and river flows are declining as snowpack declines.” As fish become concentrat­ed in smaller areas, Isaak said, disease can increase in a population because transmissi­on is easier.

In 2016, the Yellowston­e River — famous for its fly fishing and its cutthroat trout, which thrive in colder waters — was closed to anglers for 183 miles downstream from the park after an outbreak of kidney disease killed thousands of fish. “The feeling was that this was a canary in the coal mine,” said Dan Vermillion of Sweetwater Travel Co., a fly-fishing operation in Livingston, Montana.

Lower flows and warmer water are one consequenc­e of spring arriving earlier. Quickly melting snow unleashing torrents is another. Flooding has affected the nesting of water birds such as common loons, American white pelicans and double-crested cormorants. “All their nesting is on lakes and ponds, and water levels are fluctuatin­g wildly, as it does with climate change,” said Douglas W. Smith, a park biologist.

And Yellowston­e’s trumpeter swans are declining. By the early 20th century, hunters had wiped out most of the enormous birds in the continenta­l United States, killing them for food and fashionabl­e feathers. But 70 or so swans remained in the Yellowston­e region, some of them safe inside the park. Those birds helped restore trumpeters nationwide. Now only two trumpeter pairs live in the park, and they have not bred successful­ly for several years.

Part of the reason, said Smith and a colleague, Lauren E. Walker, could be the loss of nests and nesting sites during spring floods. A pair on Swan Lake, just south of Mammoth Hot Springs, has spurned the floating nest that the Park Service installed to help the birds.

“Heritage-wise this is a really important population,” Walker said. “If this is no longer a reliable spot, what does that mean for the places that may have more human disturbanc­e?”

On the shores of Yellowston­e Lake, dozens of late-season visitors watched two grizzly bears eating a carcass, while a coyote and some ravens circled, just a hundred or so yards from the road. “If they run this way,” the ranger called out, “get in your cars.”

Grizzlies are omnivores, eating whatever is available, including the fat- and protein-packed nuts of the whitebark pine. That pine is perhaps the species most visibly affected by climate change in Yellowston­e and throughout the West. Warmer temperatur­es have allowed a native pest, the mountain pine beetle, to better survive winter, move into high elevations and have a longer reproducti­ve season. In the past 30 years, an estimated 80 percent of the whitebark pines in the park have died by fire, beetle or fungal infection.

For want of the whitebark pine, a great deal could be lost. The trees are a foundation species, meaning they play a central role in the structure of the ecosystem. They colonize exposed mountain sites, allowing other plants to get a root-hold. Their wide canopies protect snowpack from the sun. They are also a keystone species. They provide food for birds such as the Clark’s nutcracker, which, in turn, create whitebark pine nurseries by caching nuts. And they are an important food source for squirrels, foxes and grizzlies.

When pine nuts are not plentiful, bears consume other foods, including the elk or deer innards left by hunters outside the park. And that can bring the Yellowston­e-area grizzlies, relisted as endangered this September, into conflict with people.

The loss of the pines “has far-reaching implicatio­ns for the entire ecosystem,” said Jesse A. Logan, a retired Forest Service researcher.

“The rest of the landscape, even in the mountainou­s West, has been so altered that Yellowston­e becomes even more important,” Logan said.

Yellowston­e provides a refuge for people seeking and delighting in a sense of wilderness. It offers a landscape unlike any other: a largely intact ecosystem rich in wildlife and rich in geothermal features. Yellowston­e’s unusual beauty was forged by volcanic heat; heat from humanity could be its undoing.

 ?? PHOTOS BY JOSH HANER / THE NEW YORK TIMES ?? Bison trudge along a stretch of land in October in Yellowston­e National Park. Climate change is altering America’s first national park so quickly that plants and animals may not be able to adapt.
PHOTOS BY JOSH HANER / THE NEW YORK TIMES Bison trudge along a stretch of land in October in Yellowston­e National Park. Climate change is altering America’s first national park so quickly that plants and animals may not be able to adapt.
 ??  ?? Visitors take in the view of Lower Yellowston­e Falls from a scenic overlook in Yellowston­e National Park.
Visitors take in the view of Lower Yellowston­e Falls from a scenic overlook in Yellowston­e National Park.
 ??  ?? An elk rests at Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowston­e.
An elk rests at Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowston­e.

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