Las Vegas Review-Journal

Idaho french fries and fried pork tenderloin, plus a class on jams

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IT can be a little frustratin­g to see a TV commercial about a product and then not be able to find it in local stores, so we’re guessing we have welcome news for Bob Ranfone, who’s looking for Grown in Idaho french fries.

Paul Gary and Maurice Shafer found them at Winco, which has stores at 80 N. Stephanie St. in Henderson and 6101 N. Decatur Blvd. Deanna Hanes found them at Smart & Final at 4439 W. Charleston Blvd. (and added, “This brand also has the best thick-cut hash browns I have found”), and Clara Meamber spotted them at Smith’s at 2211 N. Rampart Blvd.

For Failyn Brooks, Kolene Copas recommende­d the fried pork tenderloin sandwiches served at Hash House A Go Go, which has five locations in Southern Nevada, and Mike Fleming said they’ve been available for years at Hammer’s Grill & Gaming Bar, 771 E. Horizon Drive in Henderson.

And for readers interested in learning how to make jams and conserves, Clark County Cooperativ­e Extension is offering classes beginning Dec. 3 for $5 at its offices at 8050 Paradise Road. For the schedule and details, go to bit.ly/2kqgksa or eventbrite.com.

More reader requests

Jody Eaton is looking for Lighthouse Brand Honey Mustard Dressing.

Fern Cohen is looking for Saucy Susan, which she used to get at Glazier’s Food Marketplac­e.

Elizabeth Hust is looking for a sticky muffin (with the bottom possibly coated with honey) she used to find at Vons at 1155 E. Twain Ave. and has seen in Seattle. Readers?

And remember to keep those requests coming, readers. They’re the fuel that drives Taste of the Town.

Send requests to Heidi Knapp Rinella at hrinella@reviewjour­nal. com or 702-383-0474 (put “Taste of the Town” in the subject line). Follow @Hkrinella on Twitter.

‘Insane level of love’

These new projects come less than a year after Esther’s opened in the Arts District, quickly becoming one of the most talked-about restaurant­s of the year among both foodies and the general public.

“It was insane the level of love that we got from our community,” Trees says of the restaurant’s reception. “And I appreciate every single human being who walked through that door.”

The Las Vegas native, who spent a decade working in San Francisco and Los Angeles before coming home to open Esther’s, credits his many friends in the local culinary community with contributi­ng to its buzz. Beyond that introducti­on, however, he says the Italian restaurant struck a chord through its dedication to approachab­le cuisine, quality ingredient­s and reasonable prices.

“I think people are like yeah, this is what restaurant­s are supposed to be like. They’re supposed to be fun. They’re supposed to be communityo­riented. They’re supposed to be geared toward everyday people being able to go out and enjoy their lives a little bit … and still be able to pay their bills.”

Keeping it affordable

Trees is confident that philosophy will help him thrive at Tivoli Village, despite the fact that many successful local restaurate­urs have failed there.

“To put it mildly, I think people overstep their bounds in Summerlin. And so the restaurant graveyard is a bunch of ego that was in lineup after lineup after lineup (at Tivoli).”

He points to the success of Echo & Rig, which he describes as “a reasonably priced steakhouse,” as proof that the right concept can work there. He hopes Ada’s will find a similar niche.

“Pizza, pasta and ice cream — these are the things people want,” he says of the menu. “And we’re not going to go crazy on the price.”

At the Strat

It was a combinatio­n of Trees’

Las Vegas roots and the food he delivers at Esther’s that secured him the space at Stratosphe­re. He has relationsh­ips with several members of the hotel’s culinary team that go back decades, including Bart Mahoney, vice president of food and beverage for the hotel’s parent company, Golden Entertainm­ent. Mahoney was responsibl­e for getting the chef his first Strip internship at The Mirage when he was 16 years old.

“It was almost like bringing a family member back into the fold,” Mahoney says of teaming with

Trees again. “And it doesn’t hurt that this family member has one of our favorite restaurant­s in town I think people are like yeah, this is what restaurant­s are supposed to be like. They’re supposed to be fun . ... geared toward everyday people being able to go out and enjoy their lives a little bit … and still be able to pay their bills. right now that we all seem to eat at weekly.”

What inspired them to make the move from customers to partners was the desire to modernize a space on the 108th floor of the Stratosphe­re Tower.

“We’re looking for a great place for people to eat, but (just) as importantl­y enjoy the 360-degree views of Las Vegas,” Mahoney explains.

Trees says he was sold on the idea when he learned that the plan was to transform the space with the amazing view from what he describes as “a 1987 convention hall vibe” into a sort of “Nevada/

Las Vegas museum” that will use its vantage point to highlight historical­ly important places in the valley.

“Steve Arcana (Golden Entertainm­ent’s executive vice president and COO) is all about making stuff about Vegas, and trying to tell our history as a city. I’m from Las Vegas, so this means something to me.”

Once again, simple food and reasonable prices are key to his strategy. Small snacks will be priced around $4, with sandwiches expected to be in the $10 to $14 range.

“I’m not trying to push it,” Trees says of the venue. “I just want to do a little thing there and be of service to (Golden Entertainm­ent President and CEO Blake) Sartini and our community. Because like everything else, it’s all about being of service to your friends. And in this industry, if I don’t have a friend like Bart Mahoney, I would never be where I am today.”

Contact Al Mancini at amancini @reviewjour­nal.com. Follow @Almanciniv­egas on Twitter.

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