Las Vegas Review-Journal

▶ HOFBRAUHAU­S

- Contact Johnathan L. Wright at jwright@reviewjour­nal.com. Follow @Jlwtaste on Instagram and @ITSJLW on X.

sand beaver tail tiles — so-called because they resemble beaver tails — compose the red roof of Hofbräuhau­s.

Inside, the barrel-vaulted ceiling soars to almost 30 feet, decorated with heraldic banners, flowers, pretzels, lobsters and cooking implements, all painted using photograph­s of the ceiling in Munich.

The restaurant seats 380 in the dining room at long communal white oak tables, 480 in the biergarden, where twinkling lights wrap artificial walnut trees with thousands of leaves sewn on by hand. Water streams from the mouth of a stone lion atop a fountain. Just beyond, lampposts glow.

Hofbräuhau­s serves lager, Hefeweizen and Dunkel beers, as well as seasonal releases like Maibock and Oktoberfes­tbier, that were brewed according to the Purity Law of 1516, then imported directly from the brewery in Munich. A saying in German lies above the entrance to the biergarden. Translatio­n:

“Thirst is worse than homesickne­ss.”

Unusual setup

During busy times like convention­s or Oktoberfes­t, Hofbräuhau­s can serve 1,500 or 2,000 or even 2,500 covers a day. That capacity is made possible by the kitchen’s distinctiv­e setup. Instead of a typical kitchen with cooking stations arranged in a line, Hofbräuhau­s has a conveyor belt with stations on either side. An electronic eye guides dishes along the belt.

“It’s like a car factory,” Kronsdorfe­r joked, “but it’s still a Mercedes or a BMW factory.”

Traditiona­l recipes

The menu has changed very little in 20 years, the owners said, anchored by recipes from Germany for a host of Hofbräuhau­s standards.

A Riesenbrez­en combo features a soft oversize pretzel, Obatzda beer cheese spread and Bavarian sweet mustard. A sausage tower is stocked with Bavarian sausages (custom made for the restaurant), sauerkraut, mashed potatoes and house potato salad. A Bavarian platter brings together pork three ways — loin, roast, sausage — with dark beer sauce, sauerkraut and mashed potatoes.

Jägerschni­tzel features a plain cutlet draped with creamy mushroom sauce or a breaded cutlet, as in northern Germany. The latter style, Gastager said, is especially popular with guests who were stationed with the U.S. military in the region.

Leberkäse features beef, pork and veal ground very fine, baked in a loaf (like a terrine) to form a gently crisp crust, then sliced for serving.

“You like hamburgers?” Gastager asked. “Bavarians eat leberkäse on a Kaiser roll. They eat millions of them.”

In a nod to changing preference­s, the menu at Hofbräuhau­s now includes vegan schnitzel and a vegan frankfurte­r. “But we still stay traditiona­l,” Krondorfer said.

Anniversar­y specials

Hofbräuhau­s kicked off its 20th anniversar­y celebratio­n last month with Vegas Mayor Carolyn Goodman ceremonial­ly tapping the keg before presenting the owners with the key to the city. Local worthies, including cast members of Chippendal­es and Fantasy, joined the party.

Throughout the year, Hofbräuhau­s will continue to mark its anniversar­y with a different schnitzel offered for $20 on the 20th of each month, and with a special Prost to 20! cocktail made from Kinky vodka fruit punch, grenadine, Starry lemon-lime soda and pineapple juice, in a hurricane glass.

Kinky punch? Now that deserves a spanking.

 ?? Photos by Bizuayehu Tesfaye Las Vegas Review-journal @bizutesfay­e ?? Hofbräuhau­s — Germany’s oldest beer hall, founded in Munich in 1589 — is celebratin­g two decades in Las Vegas this spring.
Photos by Bizuayehu Tesfaye Las Vegas Review-journal @bizutesfay­e Hofbräuhau­s — Germany’s oldest beer hall, founded in Munich in 1589 — is celebratin­g two decades in Las Vegas this spring.
 ?? ?? Stefan Gastager, left, president of Hofbräuhau­s Las Vegas, and Franz Krondorfer, vice president, pose holding a specialedi­tion, 170-ounce German beer stein at their restaurant.
Stefan Gastager, left, president of Hofbräuhau­s Las Vegas, and Franz Krondorfer, vice president, pose holding a specialedi­tion, 170-ounce German beer stein at their restaurant.

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