2017 Acura MDX Sport Hybrid is a smooth three-row marvel Mechanics want to do all sorts of things to this car
The last time I remember being impressed with Acura was my dad’s Acura Legend in the late ‘80s. Recently, the ILX felt like a gussied up Honda Civic and the RDX drifted into that great homogenous pool known as the compact crossover. But the 2017 MDX Sport Hybrid earns the esteem — and premium — accorded to Honda’s luxury brand.
Though the RDX had its best-selling year in 2016, the MDX led the brand and affirmed Acura’s claim as the best-selling luxury three-row crossover, making it the most important car in the lineup. The Sport Hybrid makes the MDX even better.
The MDX was known for having a smooth and quiet ride, and the hybrid seems even more chill. It’s the smoothest hybrid we’ve driven, with no noticeable transition of power from all-electric mode at low speed and light acceleration to hybrid engine and motor power at moderate speed. If it weren’t for the power flow monitor on the top screen, it might not be noticed at all.
That seamless refinement comes from the three-electricmotor system first used in the RLX hybrid sedan and NSX supercar. Acura’s first hybrid SUV, the MDX uses a motor built into the seven-speed dual clutch transmission to supplement the 3-liter V-6 engine to boost output to the front wheels. Between the rear wheels is a twin-motor unit that acts as a differential to give power to the rear wheels. Total horsepower jumps from 290 in the gas model to 321 in the AWD hybrid. That rear-mounted position provides better weight balance between the axles for more spirited performance and better control.
It’s still a heavy car, coming in at just under 4,500 pounds (the AWD MDX is 4,215). The hybrid element of its name should be emphasized more than the sport. And there’s nothing wrong with that. Both front and rear motors recapture energy when coasting to power the batteries, and the rear motor unit is automatically decoupled in certain situations, such as highway cruising, to improve efficiency.
It’s all very smart, and like most smart, good things it’s noticeable only upon investigation. The 1.3-kWh lithium ion battery pack is mounted under the floor near the center of the car, lowering the center of gravity by an inch while maintaining the same ground clearance as the gas model. It has virtually the same cargo volume as the regular MDX, which is unusual for a hybrid and brilliant for a family vehicle.
We averaged over 27 mpg in our week with the trimmedout tester, which is a 5 mpg (or 23 percent) more than the gas model. And it costs only $1,500 more than the AWD V-6 engine with the same packages. Averaging 15,000 miles a year with gas at $2.50/gallon, we’d recoup the hybrid upcharge in less than five years.
Inside, the MDX Sport Hybrid has exclusive trim in the two highest package options. The tester had the most expensive Advance package, with wood accents between the soft black dash and the lower cream-colored parts that match the leather seats. The Advance package includes a six-seat configuration with the midrow captain’s chairs separated by a
storage console with cup holder. Buttons and levers make getting and out of the rear seats easy, but this is no place for teens or adults.
The low roofline with the third row over the rear axle and its motor components means there is absolutely no headroom. At 5-foot-9 my head was against the roof even in a slouch. Slide the midrow seat back and I’m eating my knees. The regular MDX isn’t much roomier. Up in the cockpit, the insistence on using a two-screen display takes away from the otherwise elegant interior finish. Two screens are double the annoyance. The higher one recessed in the dash is for
navigation and backup camera, while the lower one is a touch screen to control the top or for audio. Combining the two small screens into one larger screen like Volvo XC90 would really improve the center stack and overall integration.
Like Honda, Acura’s advanced safety technology — known as Acurawatch, with adaptive cruise and other stuff — is better than its convenience technology, such as navigation and voice commands. The redundant steering controls are somewhat limited to the basic instrument cluster display, which is narrow. It’s not as sharp as the rest of the car.
Yikes! Let’s take a look at why these services might be needed and perhaps a third inspection/opinion is called for. After 13 years of service it would be nice to give the cooling system some attention. I think flushes are overrated, but hoses and a thorough drain/rinse and refill with appropriate coolant/water is a reasonable thing to do. Water pumps are usually replaced because they leak, make noise, or are a sensible thing to renew at the time of timing belt replacement. Perhaps your first tech noted leakage? Some staining at the weep hole is normal, but there shouldn’t be any signs of actual fluid dripping.
Struts, which contain your shock absorbers, are a tough call. The folks that make replacements recommend renewing them every 50,000 miles. I don’t think years make much difference. If yours show no signs of leakage and you don’t drive the
BRAD BERGHOLDT
Corolla under demanding conditions (rough and/or twisty roads), or notice excessive bouncing or tire tread cupping, they can probably go further.
Brake pads are either needed or not, depending on remaining lining thickness or possible damage from overheating or a leaking caliper. Toyota’s minimum lining thickness spec is 1 millimeter. I’d recommend changing pads a bit sooner than this unless the brakes are inspected frequently. You don’t want to accidently grind the pad backs into the rotors.
Any two techs will differ on opinion as the pads wear down into this range. Brake rotors should be straight, not scored or heat-checked, and at least 25 mm thick. I’d tolerate slightly imperfect original rotors of sufficient thickness over frequently junky replacements, were it my car.
Tires should be changed in wet conditions when the tread is worn down to 4/32 inches (groove depth); the legal minimum is 2/32 inches. Wear bars, perpendicular to the tread, also indicate they’re at the end of the road. Ten years is also considered to be the age limit for tires. Unless damaged or you drive in high speed/demanding conditions, changing them early doesn’t make much sense.
Battery? Unless you’ve had symptoms (slow cranking, lights dimming at idle, the need to jump start) your second tech may have based his/her recommendation by age alone or conductance test results. Batteries typically last five to eight years in a mild climate, less in really cold or hot areas. Warm weather is an easy time for a battery, while a marginal one can often last until winter.
Cabin air filter replacement is recommended every 30,000 miles. In humid or dusty areas, a change may be needed earlier if odors or low airflow are noted.