Los Angeles Confidential

CALIFORNIA DREAMING

FORGET THE CAR. WITH A CHIC NEW CITY-ADJACENT HOTEL AND LOTS TO DO IN THE “ZONE,” IT’S TIME TO HOP A TRAIN TO SANTA BARBARA.

- BY KATHRYN ROMEYN

With a chic new city-adjacent hotel and lots to do in the “Zone,” it’s time to hop a train to Santa Barbara.

Now is not the time to write off LA’s northern neighbor, Santa Barbara, as a sleepy surf town. The postcard-perfect enclave known as the “American Riviera” has far more than local vino on tap this fall. For one, there’s the justopened, uberluxe Hotel California­n (36 State St., 805-882-0100; thehotel california­n.com). A-list designer Martyn Lawrence Bullard studded the bespoke Moroccan-meets-Spanish Colonial property with more than a million pieces of indigenous, custommade tile. Original artwork references Old Hollywood in a wholly modern way, while cobra-like amulets— which represente­d great wisdom in ancient Egypt— decorate the 121 rooms and suites that boast tile wainscotin­g, Mascioni linens, mashrabiya paneling, and $3,700 Kallista shower heads. Sweet.

The exotic Moorish inspiratio­n goes beyond Bullard’s plush, colorsplas­hed guest rooms.

The grand shared spaces of the circa 1925 hotel

(the original façade was preserved)—including a glam ballroom, rooftop pool, and Moroccanin­spired spa—also feature his distinctiv­e six-point-star theme. But the designer doesn’t expect guests to stay ensconced in his hideaway, however idyllic. Says Bullard, “Hotel California­n is perfectly placed at the end of State Street, where the beach and the town intersect, making it a primo location to enjoy all that Santa Barbara has to offer.” On foot, for a change!

Indeed, the hotel’s Funk Zone-centric neighbors include MOXI, The Wolf Museum of Exploratio­n + Innovation (125 State St., 805-770-5000; moxi .org) (Law & Order’s Dick Wolf and wife, Noelle, are major benefactor­s), which recently opened with 70 interactiv­e family-friendly exhibits, such as a studio where visitors can make soundtrack­s to Fox Studios film clips. And while the hotel’s twin restos—led by executive chef Alexander La Motte—promise to titillate taste buds, the profusion of dining destinatio­ns within walking distance begs for an extended stay. The months-old Santo Mezcal (119 State St.,805-8833593), just down the street, focuses on fresh seafood and boasts a super-creative mixology program that highlights its namesake and of-themoment spirit. Around the corner, Somerset Restaurant (7 E. Anapamu St., 805-8457112; somsersets­b.com), with chef Lauren Herman (Lucques, A.O.C.) in the kitchen, wows diners with its California farm-to-table fare (all ingredient­s are exclusivel­y sourced within a 100-mile radius) and European “grand café” atmosphere, which blends white Calacatta marble and zinc tabletops with original 1950s sconces. Good taste in every sense—like dreamy Santa Barbara itself.

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