Los Angeles Times (Sunday)

Did they want fries with that in Pompeii?

Excavated fast-food place hints at tastes from AD 79, revealing some favorite dishes of ancient Roman city.

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ROME — A fast-food eatery at Pompeii has been excavated, helping to reveal dishes that were popular for the citizens of the ancient Roman city who were partial to eating out.

Pompeii Archaeolog­ical Park’s longtime chief, Massimo Osanna, said Saturday that while some 80 such fastfood places have been found at Pompeii, it is the first time such a hot-food and drink eatery — known as a thermopoli­um — was completely unearthed.

A segment of the fastfood counter was partially dug up in 2019 during work to shore up Pompeii’s oftcrumbli­ng ruins.

Since then, archaeolog­ists kept digging, revealing a multisided counter, with typical wide holes inserted into its top. The countertop held deep vessels for hot foods, not unlike soup containers nestled into modernday salad bars.

Plant and animal specialist­s are still analyzing remains from the site, with its counter frescoed with a figure of an undersea nymph astride a horse.

Images of two upsidedown mallards and a rooster, whose plumage was painted with the typical vivid color known as Pompeiian red, also brightened the eatery and probably served to advertise the menu.

Another fresco depicted a dog on a leash, perhaps not unlike modern reminders to leash pets. Vulgar graffiti was inscribed on the painting’s frame.

Valeria Amoretti, a Pompeii staff anthropolo­gist, said that “initial analyses confirm how the painted images represent, at least in part, the foods and beverages effectivel­y sold inside.”

Her statement noted that duck bone fragment was found in one of the containers, along with remains from goats, pigs, fish and snails.

At the bottom of a wine container were traces of ground fava beans, which in ancient times were added to wine for flavor and to lighten its color, Amoretti said.

“We know what they were eating that day,” said Osanna, referring to the day of Pompeii’s destructio­n in AD 79.

The food remains indicated “what’s popular with the common folk,” Osanna told Rai state TV, noting that street-food places weren’t frequented by the Roman elite.

One surprise find was the complete skeleton of a dog. The discovery intrigued the excavators, since it wasn’t a “large, muscular dog like that painted on the counter but of an extremely small example” of an adult dog, whose height at shoulder level was eight to 10 inches, Amoretti said.

It’s rather rare, Amoretti said, to find remains from ancient times of such small dogs, discoverie­s that “attest to selective breeding in the Roman epoch to obtain this result.”

Also unearthed were a bronze ladle, nine amphorae — which were popular food containers in Roman times — a couple of flasks and a ceramic oil container.

Successful restaurate­urs know that a good location can be crucial, and the operator of this ancient fastfood eatery seemed to have found a good spot.

Osanna noted that right outside the eatery was a small square with a fountain, with another thermopoli­um in the vicinity.

Pompeii was destroyed by the volcanic eruption of Mt. Vesuvius, which is near present-day Naples. Much of the ancient city still lies unexcavate­d. The site is one of Italy’s most popular tourist attraction­s.

Human remains were also discovered in the excavation of the eatery.

Those bones were apparently disturbed in the 17th century during clandestin­e excavation­s by thieves looking for valuables, Pompeii authoritie­s said.

Some of the bones belonged to a man, who, when Vesuvius erupted, appeared to have been lying on a bed or a cot, since nails and pieces of wood were found under his body, authoritie­s said.

Other human remains were found inside one of the counter’s vessels, possibly placed there by those excavators centuries ago.

 ?? A THERMOPOLI­UM, Luigi Spina Associated Press ?? or hot-food and drink eatery, in the Pompeii Archaeolog­ical Park near Naples, Italy. It marks the first time such a site was fully excavated.
A THERMOPOLI­UM, Luigi Spina Associated Press or hot-food and drink eatery, in the Pompeii Archaeolog­ical Park near Naples, Italy. It marks the first time such a site was fully excavated.

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