Los Angeles Times (Sunday)

8 STUNNING SOCAL SEA CAVES TO SCOUT

WINTER, WHEN TIDES ARE AT THEIR LOWEST, IS A GREAT TIME TO EXPLORE. CHECK OUT THESE WATER-CARVED BEAUTIES FROM MALIBU TO SAN DIEGO.

- STORY AND PHOTOGRAPH­S BY CATHERINE PEARLMAN

VI S I T I N G S E A C AV E S isn’t just about seeing a cool grotto carved out by the ocean — it’s also about the journey to find these caverns. There are cliffs to descend, rocks to scramble, tide pools to tiptoe around and sea grass to avoid slipping on (trust me on this). Southern California is particular­ly good for sea cave hunting because the coast features large bluffs, fault lines and a relentless ocean. Carved out of rock cliffs that date back as many as 75 million years, caves are formed by waves pounding against the water line. Where there’s a crack or fault in the cliff, a cave slowly develops. Every cave has its own personalit­y and tells a story that can be decoded only by careful observatio­n. Some are just a few feet deep, while others could fit an NBA regulation basketball court. Cave bottoms are lined with sea life such as mussels, gooseneck barnacles

and tiny snails; the rest of the space is a geological treasure trove.

Due to erosion and tidal variations, these caves transform from season to season, year to year. A few years ago it was easy to walk on hardpacked sand right through the cave at Thousand Steps in Laguna Beach. Nowadays, all the sand has washed away, exposing enormous boulders. To enter, one must hop, skip and jump.

Most sea caves (except the ones in the La Jolla Underwater Park) must be accessed during low tide — look for a tide that’s below -1 on the tide table. Make sure to plan ahead by checking the tides, surf and swell (the lower, the better); you can set up alerts for low-tide events on apps such as Tide Alert (NOAA). Arrive about an hour before the lowest tide so you have time to find the cave, explore in and around it and head safely back. At most, it’s a three-hour adventure before the tide comes in.

A word of warning: Always use caution before entering a cave, and avoid sea caves in the aftermath of events like the recent storms in L.A. County. Brett F. Sanders, a professor of civil and environmen­tal engineerin­g at UC Irvine, studies flooding and erosion hazards. “Sea caves are always at risk of flash flooding from strong waves,” Sanders says. “A big storm event can trigger an

instabilit­y of the rock surroundin­g the cave, leading to a partial or even complete collapse of the cave.” Furthermor­e, “With a big winter storm, the waves can be much bigger, which heightens the strength of currents in and out of the caves,” he says.

So hang back and watch waves entering the cave before you go in yourself, and be mindful of timing. When in doubt, just look from afar. It’s still an amazing experience.

Here are the best sea caves to check out during SoCal’s winter, when the tides are at their lowest. Don’t forget to bring sturdy shoes that can get wet and an adventurou­s spirit.

LEO CARRILLO STATE PARK

The cave at Leo Carrillo State Beach, within Leo Carrillo State Park, is one of the easiest to access. To find the cave, park in the lot closest to the park entrance guard hut. At the back of the parking lot, follow the path to the beach by using the tunnel under PCH. Once at the beach, walk to the far right. Stick to the rocks that wind around the cliff. (There’s a blue lifeguard tower above.)

After a few minutes of rock scrambling, you will see the opening to the cave. Once inside this deceptivel­y deep cave, you can watch water splashing on the rocks and pelicans flying by as you gaze at the shore. A peephole, carved halfway back into the cave, offers additional light.

There is limited street parking on PCH, or you can park in the lot for $3 per hour or $12 for the day.

Bonus tip: After enjoying the cave and tide pools, head to Neptune’s Net for clam chowder and a basket of fried fish and chips.

● 35000 E. Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, (310) 457-8144, parks.ca.gov

EL MATADOR BEACH

The beach at El Matador offers the most interestin­g and diversifie­d sea cave hunting experience in the SoCal area. It’s a bit of a hike to get down to the beach, with dirt paths and steep steps, but the payoff is worth it.

You’ll see a freestandi­ng 20-foot rock that looks like a colossal elephant with several cavities. Hundreds of mini sea caves dot the cliff wall. The holy grail of them all is a short walk up the beach to the north. Pass two sets of private steps to homes above, and the sea cave will appear.

Duck inside to find a maze. The main section of this cave is so cavernous, containing caves within caves, that it’s like an apartment building.

El Matador is also fantastic for bird watching and tide pooling.

Parking is available in a small lot with hourly rates.

Bonus tip: Make a quick stop on your way to the cave to pick up a picnic of sandwiches and a charcuteri­e board at Vintage Grocers.

● 32200 E. Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, (310) 457-8144, parks.ca.gov

HUDSON’S BLUFF (A.K.A. TERRANEA COVE)

Made famous by the 1987 film “The Lost Boys,” the Hudson’s Bluff Cave is actually two caves: one wet at the waterline and one nice and dry on the rocks above. Located beside the

Terranea Resort, Hudson’s Bluff Cave is easily accessible if you want to take a quick look.

To reach it, enter the Flowerfiel­d Trail (at the corner of Nantasket and Sea Cove drives) and go through the caged fence tunnel. Turn right at the end, then follow the path toward the resort until the first concrete steps. At the bottom of the steps, turn left, following the paved road down to the beach. The caves are at the far left end of the little rocky beach. Climb up the rocks to stand in the dry cave and look down at the sea cave while beholding the breathtaki­ng Catalina views.

There is free street parking right before the entrance to the Flowerfiel­d trail.

Bonus Tip: To make the most of this location, book a day membership at the Terranea resort for use of the spa, fitness center and pool (available Monday through Thursday) or grab a bite at Nelson’s on the property.

● Nantasket Drive, Rancho Palos Verdes, (310) 494-7891, waze.com/live-map/directions /us/ca/rancho-palos-verdes /hudsons-bluff-sea-cave-the -lost-boys-lair

LITTLE CORONA DEL MAR TO CRYSTAL COVE

For the most epic sea cave adventure, wait for an extremely low king tide (when you’re looking at the tide table,

look for a -1.5 or lower), then take the walk from Little Corona del Mar Beach (entrance is at the intersecti­on of Ocean Boulevard and Poppy Avenue) to the Little Treasure Cove (the most northern section of Crystal Cove State Park). Along the way, you will find caves galore. There are several arches and sea stacks that are evidence of previous sea caves that collapsed long ago.

The stroll is overflowin­g with riveting rock formations. The most eye-catching has to be the Van Gogh-like rocks below the observatio­n point on the way to Crystal Cove. The layers upon layers of sediment could have been inspiratio­n for his “Starry Night.”

If you’re worried about the tide coming in before your safe return, it’s possible to walk one way on the beach and then back on the road. Walk in Crystal Cove until you see the first stairway. Take that to Pacific Coast Highway, then walk north to Poppy Avenue.

At the end of your adventure, roam the massive stretch of tide pools in Little Corona del Mar to find snails, spiny lobsters, anemones, bat stars and adorable sea hares.

Type “Poppy Avenue” into your GPS and find free street parking in the vicinity.

Bonus tip: Drive 2½ miles south on PCH and have a date shake and a seared ahi tuna sandwich at the Crystal Cove Shake Shack while scanning for whale spouts.

3100 Ocean Blvd., Corona del Mar, (949) 644-3309, visit newportbea­ch.com/beaches -and-parks/little-corona -del-mar-beach

TREASURE ISLAND BEACH

One of the quickest easy-in, easy-out cave adventures can be had at Treasure Island Beach, right below the Montage Hotel and Resort. The structure is technicall­y more arch than cave, but it’s worth a visit.

The short walk from the car to the beach is one of the prettiest in all of Orange County: Hummingbir­ds zip around the orange flowers of mature succulents. Green vines drape the bluff next to fuchsia bougainvil­lea and little yellow and purple blooms. Gracefully tall palms erupt from the cliff to create a stunning landscape.

Follow the path behind the Montage until you see the first set of stairs or the ramp down. Once on the beach, head north to find the arch right around the bend. There are great tide pools to explore here as well.

Hourly parking is available at the Montage. There are also some free spots along PCH, and there’s a small lot at the end of Wesley Drive.

Bonus Tip: End the day with a bite from the Lost Pier Cafe on Aliso Beach.

30801 S. Coast Hwy., Laguna Beach, (949) 497-9229, visitlagun­abeach.com/things-to-do/ beaches/treasure-island

THOUSAND STEPS BEACH

Unlike most sea caves that run perpendicu­lar to the shoreline, the cave at the end of Thousand Steps Beach runs parallel. Erosion here has created the only sea cave that’s more like a tunnel. You can walk in one side and out the other. This is one of the coolest caves around because it’s constantly changing.

To get down to the beach, you don’t need to actually walk 1,000 steps. It’s only 220, but it will feel like much more, especially on the steep incline back up to Pacific Coast Highway. The descent is so extreme that some of the homes above have funiculars to ride down to the beach.

Once on the beach, turn left and walk all the way to the end of the beach. You will find the cave there. At the moment there is a stunningly clear, powder-blue tide pool outside the entrance, so you will have to scramble a little. Time it just right, and you can watch the sunset through the massive opening on the other side before heading home in the twilight.

There is free street parking along PCH and up 9th Avenue.

Bonus Tip: To replenish your strength after climbing back up those 220 steps, stop by Brooklyn City Market for tasty pizza made by real New Yorkers.

l 31972 Coast Hwy., Laguna Beach, (949) 497-9229, visit lagunabeac­h.com/things-to-do /beaches/thousand-steps

SAN DIEGO-LA JOLLA UNDERWATER PARK AND ECOLOGICAL RESERVE

If you want crystal clear waters, abundant sea life, kelp forests and at least seven caves to explore, the La Jolla Underwater Park has it all. The bluffs, more than 200 feet tall, are sandstone that likely formed while the dinosaurs roamed.

There are three main caves to explore. The first is called Arch Cave; it has six offshoot caves, the longest section of which is more than 600 feet deep. A skinny pillar remains to connect two arches, so you can paddle in one arch and out the other. The next largest cave is the Sunny Jim Cave (also accessible through a tunnel leaving the Cave Store; entry costs $10 for adults, $6 for youths). You will know this cave by the steps leading up to the store. Follow the shoreline around the bend to find Clam’s Cave, aptly named because water flushes into the cave, sloshes around and gets spit out the other side. This glorious cave can also be viewed from Coast Boulevard behind the Cave Store.

Along the way, one can spot orange garibaldi fish, pelicans, hundreds of Brandt’s cormorants, sea lions and, with a little luck, whales and dolphins.

Come with your kayak and you can paddle on your own to explore the caves. Otherwise, book with a tour leaving from La Jolla Shores.

There is some scattered street parking as well as a parking lot at Camino del Oro and Calle Frescota.

Bonus tip: After exploring the caves, walk behind the Cave Store onto the Coastal Walk Trail to enjoy the landscape from up high. Then come back in the summer to swim with leopard sharks around the caves.

2000 Avenida de la Playa, La Jolla, (858) 459-0746, sandiego.gov/lifeguards /beaches/cove

SUNSET CLIFFS

If you are interested in a treacherou­s, rocky climb down to the beach, a walk along the slipperies­t rocks known to man and an enormous punch bowlstyle sea cave, the Sunset Cliffs sea cave is calling your name. It has a massive cavity, a collapsed roof, Flintstone­s-like boulders and a single opening. This cave is a unique sight.

First, find the cave from abovegroun­d. There is a chainlink fence around it, so it’s easy to spot. Then walk north along Sunset Cliffs Boulevard toward Hill Street. When you find a rocky hillside where you can see the beach down below, you have found the way down. Once by the water, follow the shoreline south until you reach this majestic cave.

You cannot access this cave unless there is a very low tide (-1.5 or lower on the tide table), and you must use caution to get there and back safely. On the way out, look for smaller caves along the beach that sport a velvety red algae bloom.

There is street parking on Hill Street or Sunset Cliffs Boulevard.

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