14 THINGS TO DO IN FRONTIER TOWN OF LOS OLIVOS
OLD AND NEW MAKE A PERFECT PAIRING IN THIS CHARMING AREA JUST TWO HOURS NORTH OF LOS ANGELES, KNOWN FOR ITS WINE TASTINGS, LAVENDER FARMS, GOOD FOOD AND MAYBERRY VIBES
AT THE INN at Mattei’s Tavern, with its wooden floors from the late 1880s, western-themed oil paintings and plaques bearing the names of the historic ranches in the Santa Ynez Valley, you feel as if you’ve landed in another time. That is, until you see someone grab their iPhone 14 Pro to snap a photo of the picturesque Los Olivos landmark. ¶ The renovation and preservation of the heirloom property, once a 19th century stagecoach stop, was completed this year after the Auberge Resorts Collection acquired it in 2020. Set on 6½ acres of land that houses the town’s iconic water tower, this new version of Mattei’s comes in the form of a buzzy five-star resort. But the owners’ mission is to stay “true to the heritage” of the iconic destination.
Blending old and new has been a theme in Los Olivos, a charming town just two hours north of Los Angeles that’s known for its vineyards, lavender farms, orchards and horse trails. You’ll find a vintage gas pump outside the Los Olivos General Store, a carefully curated shop selling locally made lavender body wash and blood orange olive oil. At Olive + Lavender Farms, a modern and tranquil farm where you can stop for an olive oil tasting, there’s a 100-year-old stone wall, a remnant of the site’s former life as a blacksmith shop for the stagecoaches. And while visiting one of the more than 30 wine tasting rooms in town, you’ll encounter city slickers enjoying sips next to longtime locals.
Los Olivos was established in 1861 as a spot on the stagecoach route from San Francisco to just south of town in Ballard, then continuing through L.A. to San Diego. In 1885, Alden March Boyd, a 22-year-old from New York, bought 157 acres here for $8,000, built a house and planted 5,000 olive trees, naming the property Rancho de los Olivos. Eventually the town became known as Los Olivos.
In anticipation of the Pacific Coast Railway station opening, entrepreneur Felix Mattei bought the land adjacent to the station in 1885 to build Mattei’s Central Hotel, known to locals
as Mattei’s Tavern. The restaurant and rooms became a focal point of an area popular for ranch and farm activities, hayrides and horseback riding, as well as picnics and swimming in the rivers and lakes.
Over the years, Hollywood has found inspiration and evocative locations for television shows and films in Los Olivos. A section of Grand Avenue, right in the center of town, was the town square in the made-for-TV movie “Return to Mayberry,” based on “The Andy Griffith Show.”
Alexander Payne’s iconic 2004 dark comedy “Sideways,” set in the valley, included the scene we all wish we could unsee — when Miles, played by Paul Giamatti, drinks the spit bucket at Fess Parker Winery Frass Canyon. A dinner scene shot at the Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Cafe, still popular today, culminates in a scene outside in which Miles shouts, “If anyone orders Merlot I’m leaving…” — a statement that has haunted leagues of Merlot wine makers ever since.
Tasting rooms, charming independent shops and cozy restaurants are all easily walkable from the central intersection at Grand and Alamo Pintado avenues. Make use of the town’s historic walking tour, with highlights that range from the Berean Baptist Church
built in 1894 to the Los Olivos General Store from 1903, which was also the first Ford dealership in the valley and a gas station.
You may spot a local, perhaps Jackie Schafer riding her horse, Dylan, down Grand Avenue. When asked if she’d ridden into town for a sandwich, she replies, “Yes!” And when asked if she shops at Jedlicka’s Saddlery down the block, she replies, “Of course! Visitors buy hats and boots. We buy those too, and all of the other things.” Dylan leans over for a pat on the nose.
This is a land where winemaking tradition and innovation exist side by side, with newer local businesses tucked among the old and where proprietors might live down the block or over the next idyllic hilltop. The hillsides are covered with colorful wildflowers in spring, making it look like buckets of paint have been artfully splashed among the meadows and trees. Think Mayberry meets “Avatar’s” Pandora: a quaint town set in a valley so beautiful it’s almost otherworldly.
THE INN AT MATTEI’S TAVERN
As you approach the Inn at Mattei’s Tavern, you’ll see four historic palm trees. “They were originally planted so that when people were traveling on horseback, they could identify where the tavern was,” explains the Tavern’s general manager Dave Elcon.
The recent restoration of the property transformed the tavern and its additional buildings into luxurious ranch-style accommodations. The reopening also added 63 guest suites to the original four cottages, which
were built in the early 1900s, shortly after the tavern was built.
The decor is all about comfortable luxury, featuring an earth-toned palette and filled with light. Guests are greeted at the door to their rooms with classic wooden bootjacks to help them take off the western boots many people wear in the area. In addition to the tavern, there are multiple food and beverage options throughout the property, including an event space, elegant pool area, expansive gym and spa, all walking distance to the town of Los Olivos, and easily accessible to wine tasting and winery visits and other activities in the valley.
One of the original buildings is now known as the Farmhouse; it had a front porch added to set the tone for a warm welcome. Inside, you’ll find the hotel reception area and a shop curated by the home and lifestyle brand Santa Ynez General. The original water tower also was restored and now has a chef ’s garden next to it named for Felix Mattei’s wife, Lucy.
On a recent Sunday morning, the property was a buzz with activity, with visitors and locals stopping by Felix Feed & Coffee to sip coffee in a sun-dappled room and enjoy house-made pastries, toasts or a breakfast sandwich with apple mostarda on a buttermilk biscuit. Meanwhile, out the window, the view was pure peace: a field of wild grasses, freshly purified by the recent rains in the Santa Ynez Valley.
● 2350 Railway Ave., Los Olivos, (844) 788-6145, aubergeresorts .com/matteistavern
FESS PARKER WINE COUNTRY INN
In 1988, actor Fess Parker, known for playing Daniel Boone and Davy Crockett on TV, purchased Foxen Canyon Ranch, with its 700-plus acres of land.
The King of the Wild Frontier became known as the King of the Wine Frontier and established himself as an exemplary wine maker.
Parker opened the Inn in Los Olivos in 1998; before his death in 2010, he’d lead weekly singalongs with his wife, Marcella, in the lounge. His family now runs the property, which consists of 14 elegant guest rooms and five suites spread across two buildings on both sides of Grand Avenue, with rooms (complete with fireplaces) around and above Nella Kitchen & Bar and across the street by Jedlicka’s Saddlery.
The Inn offers guests complimentary tastings of its award-winning wines at the newly renovated Epiphany tasting room two blocks away; the space is filled with vibrant amber furniture and also has a garden patio. If you choose to stay at the Inn, you’ll be conveniently located near all of the wine tasting rooms, shops and restaurants in Los Olivos. Behind the Epiphany tasting room are two cabins, set up for families and those traveling with pets, with the tongue-in-cheek names World Headquarters and Chateau Relaxeau.
● 2860 Grand Ave., Los Olivos, (805) 688-7788, fessparker.com /inns-and-cabins/our-inn
BAR LE CÔTE
When you mention you’re planning a trip to the Santa Ynez Valley, many will ask, “Did you get a reservation at Bell’s in Los Alamos?” Bell’s is certainly worth the 12-mile drive. But if you want to stick to Los Olivos you can’t go wrong having lunch or dinner at seafood darling Bar Le Côte, which was opened by the Bell’s team, including executive chef Brad Mathews, part of the Companion Hospitality group with co-owners Greg and Daisy Ryan. Co-owner Helvey Design Studio designed the space, where art by Jon Flaming
complements pops of vibrant green in the dining area.
Mathews developed a menu inspired by California seafood and produce with influences from Spanish and European coastal cuisines. “My favorite dishes to make are the crudos,” he says, taking a break from the bustling open kitchen. “I am excited by the simplicity and nuances of the ingredients.” His current iteration of this raw dish pairs dry-aged yellowtail with local turnips, seaweed cream and bottarga.
“I love this community and the energy people bring into the space. When it’s Friday night and the music is bumping … everyone is smiling. It feels like a high school dance,” says Mathews. For all of the focus on seafood, he also feels a special affinity for the fried chicken sandwich on the lunch menu. It’s a craveable, crispy creation with jardiniere, house-made tartar sauce, boquerones and pickled peppers on brioche.
Bar Le Côte is in the Santa Ynez Valley, of course, so the wine list not only complements the food but also offers some exclusives. Local wine makers have collaborated with the restaurant to create four special bottlings: a Santa Maria Valley Melon “Blanc de BLC” by Justin Willett of Tyler Winery; Los Olivos “BLC” Orange by Solminer Wine Co.; “BLC” 2021, a Santa Ynez “BLC” Mourvèdre by Carhartt Family Wines; and a Santa Barbara County Sauvignon Blanc by Storm Wines called “Cocktail.”
● 2375 Alamo Pintado Ave., Los Olivos, barlecote.com
NELLA KITCHEN & BAR
At the Fess Parker Wine Country Inn, the restaurant Nella Kitchen & Bar comes from the team that created local Italian favorite S.Y. Kitchen (also worth a visit). The Nella menu features a Roman style of pizza called pinsas with handpressed soft dough that is baked to be both tender and crispy. Locals recommend the Bianca, made with caramelized onions and fior di latte, Parmigiano and challerhocker cheeses. Pay attention to the specials with seasonal ingredients too: A recent offering layered with lean soppressata and local green olives paired nicely with a pinot noir from the winery.
At the cocktail bar, Chris Hewes shakes and stirs classics and his own daily creations. Don’t be surprised to see an occasional sour gummy worm in your drink. Despite his years of experience in some of the best bars, Hewes’ “I don’t want anyone to think I am taking it too seriously” attitude fits the relaxed atmosphere.
During recent storms when several other restaurants had to close, locals and visitors gathered in this space, which was warm and cozy from the glow of the fireplace and the lively conversation about food, wine, farming and, of course, the weather.
● 2860 Grand Ave., Los Olivos, (805) 686-1359, nellakitchen.com
THE TAVERN, BAR AND LOUNGE AT MATTEI’S TAVERN
Felix Mattei’s original vision of the tavern was not just a culinary destination but also a place for people to gather. And it still feels like exactly that, even if the kitchen is now helmed by chef Rhoda Magbitang, formerly of Petit Ermitage and Chateau Marmont in Los Angeles.
Take a seat at the bar, where neighbors greet each other next to hotel guests wearing western boots, and order a locally made pinot noir or an Old Gus Berg. The bartenders make this oldfashioned craft cocktail, named for Felix Mattei’s right-hand man, with Russell’s Reserve single-barrel bourbon, pinot noir, Demerara and house Stagecoach bitters.
On the bar menu, don’t miss the toast with Santa Barbara uni caught by local fisherman Stephanie Mutz of Sea Stephanie Fish. Magbitang layers the uni onto a Catalonian-style pan de cristal with lardo and bacon jam. Hiramas crudo bathes in leche de tigre and chorizo oil and delicate roe tops the smoked trout rillettes. The wild boar chili is made with heirloom beans and chive jalapeno cornbread.
In the tavern, try Magbitang’s ajo blanco, or almond gazpacho, with crab and apple, or her gorgeous California version of a salad Niçoise with olive oil-poached salmon. (She adds crunchy watermelon radishes and Persian cucumbers to colorful potatoes, haricot vert and local green olives.) The menu also features meat in the form of smoked tri-tip sandwiches at lunch and a tavern strip steak with potatoes and onion rings at dinner. These dishes showcase the local products from ranchers and farmers including Motley Crew and Finley Farms, eggs from SZ Ranch in Cuyama and Bob’s Well Bread.
● 2350 Railway Ave., Los Olivos, (888) 218-4941, aubergeresorts .com/matteistavern/dine
THE OTHER ROOM
You may know the Backroom in nearby Solvang, which transformed into a members-only bar in 2020. Walk through the craft beer and wine shop owned by Chris Kelly and Sandy Harrison of Valley Brewers homebrew and winemaking supply, and push the bookcase to hang out with locals who know where to get a good beer. (The bar will charge you a nominal price of $5 to be a member for a day.)
Now Kelly and Harrison have teamed up with Greg and Daisy Ryan (of Bar Le Côte) to open a beer bar in Los Olivos, which they’ve affectionately named the Other Room. In a town where most of the wine tasting rooms close at 5 p.m., this small, minimalist beer bar, which stays open till 7 or 8 p.m. most nights, creates space for locals to gather after work and transitions from pouring and drinking wine by day to a relaxing afternoon and evening spot to enjoy a beer, with a series of taps chosen by experts and a focus on California breweries.
Look for a Belgian-style tripel from Third Window in Santa Barbara and an oatmeal stout by There Does Not Exist in San Luis Obispo. Another recent winner is a sour wild ale with marionberries by Firestone Walker Barrelworks in nearby Buellton. The taps and choices change with availability and offer a balance of beer styles, so there’s something for everyone.
At a recent event, the Other Room was bustling with excitement. They had presold 65 tickets for a taste of Pliny the Younger, highly sought-after golden goodness that’s released once a year.
When Greg Ryan is asked about his preferred beverage, he says, “I drink what is referred to as dad beer, the low ABV ones.”
Peckish too? Snacks are delicious, with a focus on the crunchy, beer-friendly variety. There’s also a small assortment of wine bottles to buy and take home, and a few available inhouse too.
● 2446 Alamo Pintado Ave., Los Olivos, theotherroomlos olivos.com
CARHARTT FAMILY WINES
The Carhartt family set up their tasting room, the Carhartt Cabin, in a rustic building that was originally built for a doctor. (If that family name looks familiar, yes, it’s the same Carhartt as the popular workwear brand, its clothes a ubiquitous “uniform” in the valley — though that company is run by another family member.) The locals call this spot their “Cheers”; they’ll often find their neighbors and colleagues hanging out here. Not to mention the family makes some of the best estate wines and innovative varietal bottlings in the area.
The Carhartt family bought their ranch in the 1950s. It’s where Mike — who runs Carhartt Family Wines with his wife, Brooke, and their son, Chase — grew up raising horses and cattle as a kid. In 1996, he and Brooke planted a vineyard on the property. Along with Chase, the couple make more than 30 estate bottles and a series of wines called Venture, inspired by Chase’s global travels.
Formerly known as Carhartt Winery, Carhartt Family Wines celebrates the traditional estate winemaking styles with librarybook themed labels. Currently