YOSEMITE VALLEY ROAR

The falling water and granite walls of Yosemite National Park have been humbling humans for as long as humans have walked the valley. And this year, the snowclad mountains and ferocious falls are more daunting and irresistible than usual. So — once the current flood warnings for May and June have calmed — this could be a remarkable time to see Yosemite Valley. Especially Yosemite Falls, a 2,425-foot medley of cascades that is California’s tallest waterfall. Cower at the bottom or (conditions permitting) climb the Yosemite Falls Trail to Columbia Rock, a two-mile roundtrip. Or try the Mist Trail to Vernal Falls or (if you’re a strong hiker) Nevada Fall.

But listen to rangers and be careful. As of May 16, flood worries had closed the valley’s Housekeeping Camp and North Pines Campgrounds, along with the park’s western gateway, Highway 120. The park’s southern entrance, Highway 41, was open.

Another factor: The valley may be crowded this summer, especially weekends. This is the first time in four years that the park hasn’t required advance booking for summertime day-tripper visits to the valley. Aim for a weekday. Start early. Get away from cars as fast as you can. Park admission is $35 per car.

BONUS TIP: Remember, the valley is just six square miles in an 1,187-square-mile park. If you can, drive into the high country (especially Olmsted Point, Tuolumne Meadows and Tenaya Lake) via Tioga Road, which usually opens in May or June, but might not open until July this year. The spectacular Glacier Point Road, closed for repairs in 2022, is due to reopen “no earlier than July, probably later, due to heavy snow and construction,” rangers say.