Ogle elephant seals at PIEDRAS BLANCAS ROOKERY
At sea, perhaps the northern elephant seal is as graceful and dainty as can be. But on sand, where we usually see them, these beasts are an awkward spectacle — thousands of pounds of blubbery, damp, stinky flesh, prone to molting, belly flops and mating frenzies.
Which makes them basically irresistible. Depending on the month, you may arrive at the Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery to find hundreds of these seals basking, sparring, giving birth or mating on a ridiculously beautiful stretch of state-controlled undeveloped coastline seven miles north of San Simeon. (There’s a north beach, a south beach and a beach-cam feed designed to capture both.)
Pull off the coast highway to the parking lot and boardwalk (wheelchair-accessible), usually patrolled by volunteer docents. Stay at least 25 feet away from the seals. No dogs, no drones.
The beasts are called elephant seals because of the large proboscis grown by the adult males (which get up to 18 feet long and 5,000 pounds). In November, thousands of males begin showing up on the beach after months at sea. In December, pregnant females start gathering in “harems” around dominant males. In January and February, the females typically give birth, followed by the resumption of mating a few weeks later. In March, the adult males leave, having lost up to 40% of their body weight in fasting, fighting and fornicating. Females and weanlings leave later, returning to molt in spring and summer. Anytime you stop, you’re likely to see at least a few.
BONUS TIP: Nineteenth century fishermen nearly wiped out these creatures, using their blubber for lamp oil and lubrication. Elephant seals also are common at Año Nuevo State Park in Santa Cruz County and Point Reyes in Marin County.