Los Angeles Times (Sunday)

Okra Gumbo

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2 hours. Serves 6.

This okra gumbo puts a vegetable-forward spin on the classic Southern dish. With the addition of matzoh balls (see Matzoh Balls recipe), it makes a perfect plate for Passover Seders. Not so much a fusion as an homage of flavors, this matzoh ball gumbo helps preserve little-known food stories from the Deep South, and highlights the culinary traditions that extend across the African and Jewish diasporas. Make the matzoh balls first so they have time to rest while you prepare the gumbo. The gumbo recipe calls for potato starch instead of flour, which requires additional stirring, but thickens into a nutty, golden-brown roux. Chicken broth and diced tomatoes lend the finished gumbo their umami, with a Creole spice blend that brings a subtle yet lingering heat.

CREOLE SEASONING

2 tablespoon­s onion powder

2 tablespoon­s garlic powder

1 tablespoon finely powdered

bay leaf

1 tablespoon dried oregano

1 tablespoon dried basil

1 tablespoon dried thyme

1 tablespoon black pepper

1 tablespoon white pepper

1 tablespoon cayenne pepper

5 tablespoon­s sweet paprika

1 tablespoon smoked paprika

2 tablespoon­s kosher salt

1 tablespoon MSG (optional)

OKRA GUMBO

6 cups kosher pareve

“chicken” broth, divided

1⁄3 cup plus 3 tablespoon­s

canola oil, divided

1 yellow or red onion, diced

1 small green bell pepper,

diced

1 small yellow bell pepper,

diced

8 celery stalks, diced

6 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon tomato paste

1⁄2 cup potato starch

14 1⁄2 ounces diced tomatoes

6 cups sliced okra, fresh or

frozen

1 teaspoon dried thyme

2 tablespoon­s Creole Seasoning, or more to taste (see recipe)

1 scallion, sliced thinly on a

bias, for garnish

1 For the Creole Seasoning: Mix all ingredient­s thoroughly; store

in a cool, dry place. Keeps for six months.

2 Make the gumbo: Bring the broth to a boil and set aside on low heat. Add 3 tablespoon­s canola oil to a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onion, bell peppers, celery, and garlic; stir and cook until the onion softens and becomes translucen­t, approximat­ely 5 minutes.

3 Add tomato paste and cook for 1 minute, until the paste has darkened in color. Remove the vegetables and set aside in a bowl. Add the remaining 1⁄3 cup canola oil to the same pot and heat over medium heat for about 30 seconds. Next, make a roux by whisking in the potato starch, stirring constantly until it gently browns and has a slightly nutty aroma, approximat­ely 15 minutes. You want it to be a dark blond or caramel color without burning it. Reduce the heat as necessary.

4 Maintainin­g the reduced heat, add 1 cup of the broth. The roux will sizzle a bit, so be careful. Whisk the mixture until smooth. Add the cooked vegetables and tomatoes. Stir the mixture until combined. Add an additional cup of vegetable broth. Stir in the okra, the thyme, and the Creole Seasoning. Finally, add the remaining 4 cups of broth. Cover and continue to simmer for 1½ hours, stirring occasional­ly. Taste and adjust the seasonings, if necessary.

If making Matzoh Ball Gumbo, dish up two to three matzoh balls per bowl, garnish with scallions and serve hot.

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