HAWAII’S FOODIE REVOLUTION
For a new breed of chefs, the focus is fresh, local and organic
Hawaii’s food scene has become one of the hottest in the country — and why not? The tropical paradise has a year-round growing season, fertile volcanic soil, rich pastures for raising organic meat and, of course, there’s the seafood. Yet despite this natural bounty, for years even the most accomplished Hawaiian chefs have relied on outsourced ingredients — currently, about 85% of the islands’ food is imported. A new breed of artisans is working against this status quo, tapping in to the momentum of the localvore movement that’s been building across the U.S. for the past decade or so. Hawaii’s new class of chefs is in the midst of a food revolution, where fresh and organic ingredients are the focus and local flavors are used to showcase region’s culinary roots.
Here are some of the best restaurants, food shacks, juice bars and markets to experience Hawaii’s foodie movement.
VILLAGE BURGER
Hawaii has some of the best burgers you’ll ever try. The juicy grass-fed ones at Chef Edwin Goto’s Village Burger — topped with tomatoes from nearby Kekela Farms and buns baked by the family-owned Holy Bakery — are no exception. Don’t forget the crowd-pleasing truffle fries. 67-1185 Mamalahoa Highway, Waimea, Big Island; 808.885.7319.
www.villageburgerwaimea.com
DA POKE SHACK
Local fishermen deliver their ocean loot to this Kona hole-in-the-wall every day. Da Poke Shack takes it from there, cutting and slicing the perfect poke, which is prepared eight different ways and sold by the pound. The “dynamite” is a creamy mix of aioli and avocado, while the “honey miso” is sweet, savory and slightly less decadent. Potato salad and seaweed salad work their magic on the side. 76-6246 Alii Drive, Kailua-Kona, Big Island; 808.329.7653.
www.dapokeshack.com
THE PIG & THE LADY
Chef Andrew Le digs deep into his Vietnamese-American roots and Hawaii’s cultural diversity to create perfectly eclectic dishes inspired by his mother’s home cooking. “What we are doing is taking flavors from different cultures and marrying them together, like living and growing up in Hawaii,” he said. The menu changes with availability of ingredients at this pop-upturned-brick-and-mortar restaurant. The most popular dishes include the pho French dip bahn mi and farmer’s pho. 83 N. King St., Honolulu, Oahu; 808.585.8255.
www.thepigandthelady.com
TOWN
“Local first, organic whenever possible, with Aloha always,” is the mantra of Town chef-owner Ed Kenney. Opened in 2005, this farm-to-table exemplar has a daily changing menu brought to life with produce sourced from MA’O Farms. Regional staples like macadamia nuts and mahi mahi share the plate with pancetta, chimichurri and Roquefort butter. 3435 Waialae Ave., Suite 104, Honolulu, Oahu; 808.735.5900.
www.townkaimuki.com
KCC FARMERS’ MARKET
Located in a parking lot of Kapiolani Community College every Saturday morning, this farmers market is brimming with the region’s best produce, including greens from Nalo Life Farms and fresh payayas from Kahuku Farms. You’ll also find Onopops, organic popsicles in flavors like pickled green mango and starfruit lemongrass. Don’t miss the Madre Chocolate stand or the pineapple cakes from Happy Cakes. 4303 Diamond Head Road, Honolulu, parking lot C, 7:30 to 11 a.m. www.hfbf.org/markets
MARKET FRESH BISTRO
The old “think globally, act locally” adage definitely applies to the farm-fresh dishes served at this Makawao gem. From breakfast to dinner, Chef Justin Pardo uses European techniques to showcase ingredients that are almost entirely locally sourced, including Tamimi Farms tomato salad topped with kula herb goat cheese and kalamata olive and Kupaa Farms kalo-crusted opelu kala with roasted cauliflower. 3620 Baldwin Ave., Suite 102A, Makawao, Maui; 808.572.4877.
www.marketfreshbistro.com
THE TAVERN AT PRINCEVILLE
Roy Yamaguchi is one of the leaders of Hawaiian regional cuisine, Hawaii’s first culinary movement. His North Shore outpost, the Tavern at Princeville, is in line with the new wave. Produce is grown onsite on a 5,000-square-foot garden and featured prominently in dishes like the herb-grilled vegetable medley, while local seafood is the focus of pesto shrimp scampi and the parmesan-encrusted catch of the day. 5-3900 Kuhio Highway, Kauai; 808.826.8700.
www.tavernbyroy.com
THE COCONUT CUP
Along Kauai’s Kuhio Highway, you’ll find this unassuming juice bar and cafe specializing in organic smoothies, plates of locally grown fruit, acai bowls, juices and salads. They even lay claim to the best shave ice on the island, which they make with ionized alkaline water and your choice of freshly squeezed pineapple or mango juice. 4-1516 Kuhio Highway, Kapaa, Kauai; 808.823.8630.
www.coconutcupjuicebar.com