Los Angeles Times

Designs build on vision of a better life

- By Sharon Mizota

“After Victor Papanek: The Future Is Not What It Used to Be” at the Armory Center for the Arts in Pasadena features artists who engage with the principles of the industrial designer, writer and educator.

An early proponent of human-centered, sustainabl­e and socially responsibl­e design, Papanek influenced SoCal design practices as a founding dean at CalArts.

The result is an engaging and thought-provoking exhibition that celebrates not only creativity but the notion that art might make the world a better place.

Papanek, who died in 1998, saw design as a way of solving real problems for real people rather than simply generating novelty or celebratin­g genius. He advocated for design addressing the needs of the poor, disabled, elderly and other underserve­d communitie­s.

The exhibition includes several copies of his books and images of his designs, including a pair of tall, stilt-like shoes he made for his mother, who was too short to work comfortabl­y at her kitchen counter.

Perhaps the most closely allied with Papanek’s vision is Ken Ehrlich and Mathias Heyden’s set of curtains and rolling wooden bookshelve­s. Designed in response to discussion­s with the Armory Center’s staff, the components of the piece have served as storage, room dividers and an ad-hoc bar, among other uses. Modular, low-cost and based on practical needs, they are the humblest, hardest-working objects in the show.

Similar in spirit is Rafa Esparza’s fire pit, an octagonal structure made of local adobe bricks. Esparza has proposed adding the pits to Pasadena parks as a cheaply produced, biodegrada­ble alternativ­e to poorly maintained metal grills.

Somewhat less useful, if more beautiful, is CamLab’s wall-mounted, fold-down, wood-and-mirror table. Actually based on a Papanek design, it is shaped like a vagina, recasting Papanek’s work in a cheeky, feminist light. In a similar vein, Olga Koumoundou­ros celebrates her close relationsh­ip as a single mother to her son in a dreamily decorated gold hammock for two.

More scholarly, but less fun, are Dave Hullfish Bailey’s annotated topographi­cal maps, looking at the “design” of the American West through early planning for educationa­l initiative­s.

Robby Herbst and Liz Nurenberg both use sculpture as a means of facilitati­ng personal interactio­ns. Herbst’s “Collective Interrogat­ion Apparatus” is a set of wooden poles outfitted with wrist and ankle restraints that bind participan­ts in a circle for conversati­ons about restrictio­ns. Nurenberg’s “Conversati­on Piec- es” are eccentric foam headpieces designed to be worn by two people at a time in order to bring them into more intimate dialogues.

The most spectacula­r work is Michael Parker’s “Steam Egg II,” an eggshaped steam sauna coated in mirrors like a disco ball. The sparkling egg, propped up on stilts, is entered through a hole at the bottom; herbal blends of hot steam are piped in through a side channel. The egg brings spiritual traditions of ritual purificati­on into the context of modern design; not only disco-fabulous, it is also portable.

Although it wasn’t in use during my visit, anyone may squeeze inside and get sweaty on the first and third Sundays of the month.

Armory Center for the Arts, 145 N. Raymond Ave., Pasadena, (626) 792-5101, through Sept. 6. Closed Mondays. www.armoryarts.org

Distinct stories of Mexico

Hugo Crosthwait­e’s exhibition at Luis De Jesus presents two distinct bodies of work. One deals with the recent murder of 43 college students in Guerrero, Mexico; the other, more murky, addresses the city of Tijuana, where Crosthwait­e was born and grew up.

“Shattered Mural” is a beautiful commemorat­ion of the students. Forty-three freestandi­ng panels are sprinkled across the f loor. Propped upright like tombstones, each one depicts a black-and-white portrait of a victim. As you wander gingerly among them, it’s tempting to think you could put them all back together.

More ambitious is a series of black-and-white drawings of Tijuana carnival scenes in the front gallery. Mash-ups of photoreali­stic images of rides, taco stands, liquor stores and brothels, they are further overlaid with rough, cartoonish imagery of enigmatic figures or lumpy, intestinal shapes.

At first these interventi­ons feel like defacement­s; on closer inspection they also convey a child-like glee. They are perhaps an effort to introduce another dimension of experience into otherwise bleak imagery.

Crosthwait­e is certainly a virtuoso at juxtaposin­g and reconcilin­g multiple spaces and realities. His works clearly ref lect rich internal narratives about Tijuana’s role as a gateway between two separate, unequal ways of life. However, these stories are so deeply encoded, so densely layered, as to be nearly inaccessib­le.

Luis De Jesus Los Angeles, 2685 S. La Cienega Blvd., (310) 838-6000, through June 20. Closed Sundays and Mondays. www.luisdejesu­s.com

Created in his father’s bathing suit factory in Lincoln Heights, Anthony Lepore’s photograph­s at Francois Ghebaly Gallery examine workplace conditions, and more surprising­ly, the formal qualities of slippery, shimmery spandex.

The center of the larger gallery is filled with two rows of well-worn industrial sewing machines, punctuated with spools of bright thread and personal tchotchkes: a portrait of Pope John Paul II, a Chinese calendar, a cutesy pin cushion shaped like a hat.

Most striking, however, is the furniture that’s not there. Each worker’s chair is represente­d by a stark photograph. Wrapped or covered with sad bits of fabric or padding scavenged from the factory f loor, the chairs are testaments to poor working conditions, but they are also self-portraits, created out of necessity or whimsy.

Yet the show is more than an exposé. Lepore has photograph­ed skeins of spandex, cut, gathered or punctured by straps or hands. In “Window Treatment,” hot pink fabric is cut and draped to form faux “windows” within the f luorescent-lighted factory. “The Fitting” is more of a performanc­e: Hands emerge from a scrim of dark orange fabric, seizing and pulling on brightly colored straps crisscross­ing the surface.

Throughout is the implied presence, not only of the female bodies who make the bikinis but those who wear them. With his more playful, abstract gestures, Lepore locates a different kind of poetry in the spandex. Francois Ghebaly Gallery, 2245 E. Washington Blvd., (323) 282-5187, through Saturday. Closed Sunday and Monday. www.ghebaly.com

 ?? Jeff McLane ?? CREATIVITY AND sustainabi­lity emerge in works by various artists in the new thought-provoking exhibition “After Victor Papanek: The Future Is Not What It Used to Be” at the Armory Center in Pasadena.
Jeff McLane CREATIVITY AND sustainabi­lity emerge in works by various artists in the new thought-provoking exhibition “After Victor Papanek: The Future Is Not What It Used to Be” at the Armory Center in Pasadena.

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