Nam prik pla (f ish dip)

55 minutes. Serves 2 to 4

CHILE PASTE

3 tablespoons oil About 1⁄3 cup garlic cloves, or to taste, thinly sliced 1⁄2 red onion, or to taste, chopped Handful fresh Thai chiles (red and green), or to taste

Thai chile powder, if desired Heat a wok over medium heat until hot. Add the oil, then the garlic and onion, and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant and beginning to brown. Add the chiles and continue to stir-fry until the chiles are softened and everything is wellbrowned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in a tablespoon of chile powder to taste for added heat, if desired. Remove from heat and place in a large mortar. Pound with a pestle until the mixture is reduced to a paste, 10 to 15 minutes. The paste can also be made using a food processor or blender, but the flavor is best using a mortar and pestle. Set the paste aside.

GRILLED FISH

2 whole striped bass, or similar fish, cleaned and scaled Thai chile powder Fish sauce Lime juice Heat a grill or grill pan over medium heat until hot. Season the fish with a light sprinkling each of chile powder, fish sauce and lime juice. Wrap the fish in foil and place on the grill (if using a pan, cover the pan with an inverted roasting pan to contain the heat. Grill until the skin peels away easily and the flesh is firm and opaque, 10 to 15 minutes, depending on the size of the fish. Remove from heat, skin the fish and separate the meat from the bones, checking to make sure any small bones are removed. Place the meat in a large mortar, and, using the pestle, pound the meat until it is ground.

BOILED CABBAGE

1⁄4 head cabbage, cut lengthwise into thin wedges

Cook cabbage in a small pot of sim- mering water until softened, about 5 minutes. Drain and set aside.

NAM PRIK PLA

3 tablespoonsChile paste, dividedoil

Ground grilled fish

Fish sauce, as desired

Lime juice, as desired

Sugar, as desired

Thin wedges of fresh cabbage

Boiled cabbage

Small lettuce leaves

Whole serrano chiles

Cilantro sprigs

Thai basil sprigs

Sliced cucumber

Thinly sliced red bell pepper

Lime wedges

1. Heat a wok over medium heat until hot. Add the oil, and when it begins to shimmer, add 1⁄3 of the chile paste. Stir-fry the paste until fragrant and the paste begins to brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the ground fish and cook, stirring frequently to marry the flavors. Continue to cook for several more minutes, tasting frequently, and flavoring: fish sauce will help to season the dish as if using salt, lime juice will brighten it and add a hint of sour flavor, a little sugar will sweeten with notes of caramel, and additional chile paste will add more heat.

2. Remove from heat and place the dip in a serving bowl.

3. On a large plate, arrange condiments: wedges of fresh and boiled cabbage, lettuce leaves, chiles, cilantro and basil, sliced cucumber, bell pepper and lime wedges. Serve alongside the dip.

NOTE: Adapted from a recipe by Tui Sungkamee and Jazz Singsanong of Jitlada Restaurant in Hollywood. The fish can be substituted with chicken, tofu, shrimp and even eggplant; simply grill the meat or vegetable, then grind before completing the dish. It can also be served with steamed rice.