Los Angeles Times

The ABCs of jungle life

At a ‘forest school’ near Ketapang, orangutans educate one another in survival. There’s plenty for human ‘cousins’ to do too.

- By Arnie Cooper travel@latimes.com

KETAPANG, Indonesia — Internatio­nal Animal Rescue doesn’t just help macaques; it saves and rehabilita­tes a variety of animals, such as India’s dancing bears, migrating birds that are illegally shot down each year as they fly over Malta, and the impossibly cute slow loris, now in danger of extinction.

Protection of the critically threatened orangutan also is a major focus of the organizati­on. This includes babies taken from their mothers and illegally sold as pets and, perhaps more significan­t, those abandoned due to deforestat­ion by the oil palm industry, particular­ly in Kalimantan, the Indonesian part of the island of Borneo.

This is one of two places on the planet — the other is Sumatra — where orangutans live in the wild.

Hence this stop on my Indonesia tour: IAR’s Orangutan Rescue Center outside Ketapang, a small city on Kalimantan’s Pawan River delta and a 75-minute flight from Jakarta.

The center was establishe­d in 2009 to provide a permanent facility for rescued orangutans. It includes a fully equipped clinic, quarantine capabiliti­es and open enclosures around forested land to provide young orangutans a natural environmen­t in which to learn necessary survival skills before being released.

It was a stifling early December afternoon, with the equatorial sun searing through the overcast sky, as a group of visitors from the U.S. Agency for Internatio­nal Developmen­t, the U.S. Embassy in Jakarta and I walked the grounds learning about the plight of these “people of the forest.”

I was part of this group because my spouse is a veterinari­an, but IAR welcomes volunteers here for 28-day stays, for about $1,950 (food and lodging included). Activities include helping with new constructi­on, raising produce used to feed the orangutans and maintainin­g the cages.

Days off can be spent visiting local beaches and exploring places such as Hutan Kota Park, with its wild proboscis and macaque monkeys.

“Orangutan” derives from the Malay words “orang,” which means person, and “utan,” a derivative of the term for forest. This makes sense, because they share 97% of our DNA.

As we entered a gated enclosure, we heard the warning squeaks of several youngsters scurrying up into the trees.

“These orangutans were removed from their mothers when they were small babies,” said veterinari­an Karmele Llano Sanchez, IAR Indonesia’s program director.

“Normally, they’re taught what they should and shouldn’t eat, how to make a nest, how to avoid predators, everything. But these guys haven’t had that opportunit­y, so they need to learn these skills before we release them,” Sanchez said.

Hence, the forest school, where orangutans educate one another in the finer points of jungle life. Unfortunat­ely, because of their relatively short window for learning, which usually lasts until age 7, some never graduate.

“We have rescue animals that have spent 15 years in captivity in a cage and have never seen a forest. It’s probably impossible to ever try to release them,” Sanchez said.

The center houses about 80 orangutans, though the number is constantly changing. The week before I arrived, six wild orangutans had been rescued from an oil palm plantation.

Just a couple of weeks before that, it was Hitachi, named for the Hitachi bulldozer that had been clearing land around the tree that housed his nest. “It was quite shocking,” said Sanchez, “because everything had been destroyed, and we saw this big male with cheek pads [meaning he was more than 20 years old] sleeping in the last standing tree. Luckily, the bulldozer operator decided not to bring the tree down, or Hitachi would’ve fallen and died.”

Ironically, that same bulldozer was used in his rescue. Though Hitachi was skinnier than any orangutan she’d seen rescued, he is now quite healthy. Sanchez released him in March in Gunung Palung National Park, north of Ketapang.

 ?? Arnie Cooper ?? VETERINARI­AN Karmele Llano Sanchez, left, examines an orangutan at a rescue center near Ketapang, Indonesia.
Arnie Cooper VETERINARI­AN Karmele Llano Sanchez, left, examines an orangutan at a rescue center near Ketapang, Indonesia.

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