Zen and the art of traffic
Stepping boldly into Bangkok’s hurly-burly yields unforgettable experiences — and life lessons
>>> BANGKOK, Thailand — When it comes to traffic, Los Angeles and Bangkok have something in common: constant gridlock. But that’s where the comparison ends. In L.A., snarled traffic evokes swear words, rude hand gestures and occasional cases of road rage. ¶ In Bangkok, where more than 90% of the population practices Buddhism, people generally don’t honk horns, shout or stress out. Instead, they smile and practice the art of patience. ¶ Call it karma. Call it the road to spiritual bliss. Whatever, it’s a happy change of pace. When I visited in October, I felt serene just watching all that serenity unfold around me in the middle of a traffic jam. ¶ It also helped that Bangkok is working to eliminate gridlock and change its image as one of the world’s most congested cities. An elevated train, subway and airport link now connect the main areas of the city. Add to that cheap taxis ($2 to $10 fares downtown), riverboat transportation and the ever-present tuk-tuk three-wheel cabs, and you have systems that make it easier to be a traveler here. ¶ “Our signs are in English, and we have very inexpensive methods of transportation,” said Juthaporn Rerngronasa, deputy governor with the Tourism Authority of Thailand. “We’re trying to make things more convenient for travelers.” ¶ Another bonus on the horizon: “Beginning in February, we’re going to offer combined tickets for the Skytrain,
underground and riverboats,” she said. “That will make everything simpler.”
Bangkok, repeatedly designated one of the world’s best cities by Travel & Leisure magazine (including the 2015 list), suffered a tragedy on Aug. 17 when the Hindu Erawan Shrine in the heart of the city was bombed, killing 20. But the government announced arrests, and the incident receded into the background as other disasters crowded into the global picture.
The Southeast Asian nation would like to put the episode behind it, especially given the unrest that preceded and followed a military coup in Thailand in 2014. The political picture has since stabilized, but the country’s image was tarnished.
More than 26 million people visit Thailand annually, about 800,000 from the United States. They find a dynamic city, hot, chaotic, colorful and full of exhilarating contrasts: gilded temples and sleazy red-light districts; gritty street vendors and upscale malls; an Old City and a modern one, both full of art and culture.
I timed my visit well, arriving on a Friday afternoon. Bangkok’s gridlock is at its worst during weekday rush hours.
“The key,” said a guide, “is planning. Plan not to go anywhere by car during rush hour.” Hmm, sounds like my L.A. plan.
Among Bangkok’s highlights are firmly rooted, ancient Buddhist beliefs and traditions. I watched smoky clouds of incense rise at the foot of golden shrines at the Grand Palace complex and in front of the giant Reclining Buddha at Wat Pho, joined worshipers as they presented flowers and strips of gold leaf at a temple and saw orange-robed monks drawing images of Buddha at still another temple. More serenity in this boisterous hurly-burly place.
And because traffic was light, I was able to explore other neighborhoods: the sprawling, labyrinthine streets of Chinatown and the Flower Market; bustling Khao San Road, the backpacker district; and the stylish shops and streets of Sukhumvit Road, a tourist and expat’s haven.
When Monday dawned, I hopped on the public transportation system, the Skytrain, river taxis and tuk-tuks, which maneuver through the traffic — a sometimes hair-raising way to travel. My plan allowed me to miss most of the gridlock.
Not everyone wants to avoid it, however.
As far as tourist Kylie Hill is concerned, Bangkok’s traffic is entertaining.
“It’s a bit like ‘Wacky Races’ cartoons,” the Belfast, Northern Ireland, visitor said. “Sort of organized chaos. I love to watch it.”