Los Angeles Times

Ways around the gridlock

- By Rosemary McClure travel@latimes.com

BANGKOK, Thailand — “You can get almost anywhere you need to go by using the river,” hotelier Jason Friedman tells guests at the Siam, a luxury resort on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, which winds through the heart of Bangkok.

The hotel provides its guests with speedboat shuttle rides from its pier, giving them the opportunit­y to glide by temples, riverside homes and businesses on the way to their destinatio­ns.

“Instead of being stuck in gridlock, they’re floating by scenery,” Friedman says. “They’re happy when they arrive instead of stressed.”

You don’t have to be a guest at a glamorous hotel to take advantage of this mode of travel. Long-tailed boat taxis, rush-hour express boats and cross-river ferries navigate the Chao Phraya as it snakes through the city. You can join others on a boat for fares that start at less than $1 or hire your own boat. Rates are reasonable, depending on time and distance.

Skytrain

Need to get downtown from the airport? The Bangkok Mass Transit System Skytrain is the most reasonable alternativ­e to taxis or an express bus. The Airport Rail Link connects the city to Suvarnabhu­mi Airport, completing its run in 30 minutes and stopping six times between downtown and the airport. The fare is less than $2.

Tourists also can use Skytrain to access some attraction­s in the city, such as shopping malls and the Jim Thompson House, onetime home of the American entreprene­ur. Avoid the trains at rush hour when they are, not surprising­ly, jammed.

Taxis

Tourism Authority of Thailand executive Juthaporn Rerngronas­a favors taxis and riverboats for getting around the city. Cabs are inexpensiv­e ($2 to $10 fares are common in town). And they’re air-conditione­d, a boon in Bangkok’s steamy climate. But if you catch one during rush hour, you’ll probably be stuck in gridlock. Jump to a riverboat if traffic begins to queue up.

Tuk-tuks

Some people say you should avoid these three-wheeled cabs because they’re dangerous. That’s true, but they’re also a fun way to get around a neighborho­od. And the drivers seem to know shortcuts that no one else knows. Fares of $4 or $5 are common, but you can negotiate price. (Yes, they’re usually more expensive than cabs.)

 ?? Andrew TB Tan
Getty Images ?? THE SKYTRAIN is an inexpensiv­e alternativ­e to taxis or buses in Bangkok, Thailand.
Andrew TB Tan Getty Images THE SKYTRAIN is an inexpensiv­e alternativ­e to taxis or buses in Bangkok, Thailand.

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