Historical eras jumble in Skopje
The Macedonian capital has visual elements from the Roman and Ottoman empires and Communist era. Next: Neoclassical.
SKOPJE, Macedonia — A bleached blond in a tight, bright 1960s-era chartreuse jumpsuit and a fashionista in a chic black dress and stilettos represented some of the quirky fashions passing my perch in the Art Nouveau-styled Restaurant Pelister, where I sipped local red wine overlooking Skopje’s vast downtown Macedonia Square.
The capital, a 2,500-year-old city of 500,000, is a fascinating jumble of cultural experiences and architecture from Roman to Byzantine, Ottoman to Yugoslav and contemporary.
Even the traffic on the almostempty roads was notable with its Soviet-era vintage vehicles such as Russian Ladas, tiny Fiat 500-like Zastava 750s, Czech-made Skodas and the infamous Yugo, which Time magazine rated the worst car of all time.
It was easy to stroll through the centuries in Skopje. On the outskirts I walked through fields of bright red poppies amid 2nd century Roman ruins of the city then known as Skupi.
From atop the grand 6th century walls of the Skopje Fortress there are views of elegant Orthodox churches, as well as the National Gallery of Macedonia, which is housed in a splendid 15th century Turkish hamam, and some of the 10 15th century mosques restored after a devastating 6.0 earthquake in 1963 destroyed 80% of regal old Skopje .
Japanese architect Kenzo Tange won an international, U.N.backed competition to redesign the city after the quake, and his futuristic Macedonian Ballet and Opera Theatre building, with its sloping concrete roof, has shaped part of Skopje’s skyline.
But I have a particular passion for Communist-era concrete — Brutalist architecture such as the sturdy lotus flower-like central post office, chunky fountains and apartment buildings — that now has a cool, retro feel.
It seemed as if half of Skopje was out on the wide boulevards on Sunday afternoon buying popcorn and ice cream from vendors, strolling across the iconic 15th century Stone Bridge crossing the Vardar River and heading toward the main square past an astonishing number of huge, new neoclassical buildings and giant sculptures.
Part of the Skopje 2014 urban project, they have all popped up since 2010. It’s part of the government’s plan to rebuild the capital as a historic city with roots back to Alexander the Great, who rides larger than life on horseback atop a pedestal in Macedonia Square.
The plan also includes hiding Soviet-era buildings behind white plaster columns and rooftop nymph figures. Highly controversial for its exorbitant cost in a country struggling with a 25% unemployment rate, the structures and many statues appear Las Vegasish. The Guardian newspaper minced no words by dubbing Skopje “The Capital of Kitsch.”
Incongruous amid the glitz are plaques and memorials to Mother Teresa, who was born in Skopje.
By late afternoon I’d reached my favorite neighborhood, the narrow cobblestone lanes of the Old Bazaar, second in size only to Istanbul’s and lined with carpet and leather slipper shops and teahouses where men gathered to chat.
It was charming and full of character, with heady aromas wafting throughout from sidewalk cafes serving kebabs and delicious pies of phyllo stuffed with sautéed leeks, spinach and cheese alongside Greek-style salads.
For dessert I stopped at a tiny baklava bakery and peoplewatched as sweet honey trickled down my fingers.