Spicy shishitos with crispy quinoa

20 minutes, plus overnight soaking time for the quinoa. Serves 2 to 4

3 generous tablespoons (1 ounce) red quinoa 2 to 4 tablespoons canola oil 1 dozen shishito peppers 2 tablespoons fish sauce, preferably Three Crabs or Red Boat brand 2 tablespoons citrus juice (an equal combination of lemon, orange and lime) Shaved bottarga, for garnish Coarse sea salt, preferably Maldon, for garnish

1. Soak the quinoa in water overnight to soften. The next day, drain the quinoa well.

2. Heat a sauté pan over medium heat, and coat with a thin film of canola oil. Add the quinoa and cook, stirring frequently, until crisp, about 4 minutes. Remove from heat and transfer the quinoa to paper towels to drain and cool.

3. Heat a large heavy-bottom sauté pan over medium-high heat until hot. Add the oil, and when it begins to shimmer, carefully add the peppers, blistering them on all sides.

4. Carefully stir in the fish sauce and citrus juice, tossing the peppers to coat thoroughly. Remove from heat.

5. Using tongs, remove the peppers (leave the oil and liquid in the pan) to a serving plate. Garnish with the crispy quinoa, shaved bottarga and salt. Serve immediately. Note: Adapted from a recipe by Jason Bowlin, chef de cuisine at Redbird in downtown Los Angeles.