Playing it cool
Higher elevations yield mild temperatures and starry nights
As the weather in the low country between Los Angeles and Phoenix offers its last roasting temperatures of the season, the smart money is on higher elevations. My wife, dog and I fled the 109-degree heat of Phoenix for the campground at the edge of Show Low, Ariz. — close enough to buy extra tent stakes (more on that later) but far enough into the country to see the stars, clouds permitting. The tab: We spent about $250 for two nights at the campsite, two tanks of gas, a cheap four-person tent ($50), a pair of sleeping bags and a couple of trips into town.
The bed
Reserve a campsite at the Fool Hollow Lake Recreation Area (1500 N. Fool Hollow Lake, Show Low, Ariz.; [928] 537-3680, azstate parks.com/Parks/FOHO; $20 per night). You won’t be giving up much in the way of comfort — there are clean facilities, roomy campsites and a nearby supply of firewood ($6 per bundle). There are enough RV parks in the area to attract folks who leave motors running at night. One caution: This area was named Fool Hollow because little grows in the hard, alkaline soil. You’ll need to bring a rubber mallet to hammer tent stakes into the ground.
The meal
Stop at Pinetop Brewing Co. (159 W. White Mountain Blvd., Lakeside, Ariz.; [928] 358-1971, pinetopbeer.com; entrees $9-$15.) for adventurous brews and a surprisingly fresh menu just a short drive from your campsite. Along with gastropub staples such as a Brewer’s Burger, chef ’s specials have included grilled trout, za’atar-crusted ahi tuna and bacon-wrapped pork tenderloin with adzuki beans and prosciutto.
The f ind
The cold, mountainous reaches of Arizona’s high desert descend into a cool plateau in the Apache-Sitgreaves National Forests, which is dotted with high-desert lakes. Kayak, fish or hike the shore of Fool Hollow Lake, where highland plants and fauna greet you in one of the southernmost sites to host Rocky Mountain species. From our campsite, it was a short, uninterrupted walk to the lake. The hiking at the lake is fairly tame and quick, so strike out for the most scenic views of the Mogollon Rim (pronounced muggyown) reached by the White Mountain Trail System (www.lat.ms/pinetoptrails). Anglers should check the fishing report at www.lat.ms/fishingreport; the lake contains bass, walleye, catfish and trout.
The lesson learned
Come prepared, but don’t worry if you leave something at home. We were unable to force our tent stakes into the soil until my enterprising wife returned from town with a mallet. We also benefited from thermal pads under our sleeping bags. Four-wheeldrive vehicles are preferable if snow or sleet is forecast, but we made it fine in a small, decade-old compact that barely clears big speed bumps.