A MICROCOSM OF OREGON’S COAST
The route: Cannon Beach north to Astoria on U.S. 101, the Oregon Coast Highway, to the Astoria Megler Bridge at the Oregon-Washington line. Miles: About 25 miles one way, or 200 miles for a loop from Portland on U.S. 30 and 26. Best time: Summer for warm days and seabirds near Cannon Beach; September for fair weather and smaller crowds; winter for wild storms.
Why: Oregon’s scenic coast is captured in microcosm along this northern stretch, from wide and walkable beaches, headlands and an iconic sea stack in Cannon Beach to Astoria’s charming shops and an incredible view from its namesake column, a landmark tower.
Highlights: Pull off 101 and take a quick tour of quaint downtown Cannon Beach before driving up winding Ecola State Park Road (www.lat.ms/ecolasp) to the majestic headlands. The view of Haystack Rock below is breathtaking. From April to August, the rock is home to nesting tufted puffins and other seabirds; low tide also creates opportunities to explore tide pools. After getting back on 101, consider a stop to grab taffy in Seaside or a bike exploration of Fort Stevens State Park (www.lat.ms/fort
stevens) near Warrenton. Also near Warrenton is Lewis and Clark National Historical Park (www.nps.gov/lewi) and its replica of Ft. Clatsop, where the explorers wintered in 1805. Make time to visit the small but high-quality Columbia River Maritime Museum (www
.crmm.org) in Astoria, and end the day with a climb up the 164 steps of the picturesque Astoria Column (www.astoriacolumn.org). Memorable stay: Two terrific possibilities here, either the ultracomfortable oceanfront Surfsand (www.surfsand.com) for a beach bonfire in Cannon Beach or the chic Cannery Pier Hotel & Spa (www.cannerypierhotel.com ) in Astoria, where you can watch majestic ships pass. Memorable meal: For a special occasion, spend $149 per person (wine pairing included) on the energetic dinner cooking demonstration at EVOO Cannon Beach (evoo.biz). Or try amazingly fresh fish at Ecola Seafoods (ecola seafoods.com), also in Cannon Beach. Tourist trap or treat: Treat all the way. It’s off the beaten track, but stop in the tiny community of Gearhart for a buttery pastry and coffee at Pacific Way Bakery & Cafe
(pacificwaybakery-cafe.com), now in its 29th yummy year. Plan to spend: About 1 1⁄2 hours for the drive alone, but you will want to make it a full day from Portland or spend a night in Cannon Beach, Gearhart, Seaside or Astoria.